Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Made in Minnesota sleeping quilts by Enlightened Equipment

May 6, 2017

Pal Ruth is heading out on an epic three bicycle tour (launching in Pueblo, Colorado, and motoring west to San Francisco). Lastely, she’s been loading up on cool, made in USA gear. Since she will be pedaling over mountains on a fully loaded touring rig, she’s looking for gear that is lighweight, functional, and built to last.

During our ride today, Ruth showed off her latest find: a new ultralight sleeping quilt by Enlightened Equipment. Designed and made in Winona, Minnesota, the sleeping quilt combines the down fill warmth of a sleeping bag with the flexibility and ventilating properties of a quilt blanket. You can order a shelf ready product or wait a bit longer and customize your creation, selecting down count, color and weather stripping.

18342187_10211483441554061_3872415997847243211_n-1

Pal Ruth (adventurejunky on IG) and her new, balsa-weight sleeping quilt (and optional accessory sleeping cap).

 

Revelation-Edit-1__24223.1484748209

Revelation lighweight down quilt – cinch edges down in the cold, unsnap in balmier temps

Rain_Wrap__70361.1489777022

Love this Rain Wrap – lightweight alternative to bulky rain paints for camp or hiking

If you prefer something more traditional, check out these marine canvas bedrolls by Butler Bags.

Rakuten roundup: recent finds for #ruggedladies

April 30, 2017

Even when I am in austerity mode, I love to browse Rakuten to see what is on offer for Japanese shoppers. A decade later, I remain fascinated by all the licensed euro brands that show up in small Japanese web shops (Kempel, Danton, Yarmo, Sierra Designs, Brady, to name a few). I cannot think of another place in the world where brands and styles are imported, reimagined, and than sold exclusively to a domestic audience. Fortunately, Rakuten has developed a worldwide shipping service that has opened many webshops to international customers. I tend to browse the new shops for brands and than sift the used clothing sites for bargains. I am always looking for updates on staple items or cues as to how stylish Japanese customers are sporting their garb. Here are so recent finds.

5600-6

FWK Engineered Garments lab coat paired with rolled trousers and Parabook loafers. As someone who locked in my high water pant height years ago, I love the Japanese commitment to the extreme ankle exposure and socklessness.

 

0000084876000

0000078348001

0201-top01

I love Japanese appetite for special white and off white color treatments. You won’t find these Brady bags or Barbour jackets in the US or UK.

imgrc0081215735

Several fave web shops have reached stasis in they model catalog clothing. The approach applies to men and women and goes something like: knit cap, long chore or lab coat, baggy trousers, socklessness and sneakers, clogs or loafers.

0000070734002

Interesting twist on the UK Lavenham equestrian jacket. I like the idea that a summer jacket would be designed with a quilt lining. The pockets on the jacket are pitch perfect.

imgrc0089593020

I’ve seen a number of web shops market kids clothing to women. For me, this proves  that a customer base exists for heritage clothing resized to fit women (without compromising design details or creating separate colorways). I only wish more US apparel companies would adopt this approach (or at least expand the size offerings of the kids lines to include XL and XXL).

105706-01

Danton is my new FWK Engineered Garments. I love the round collar, windproof jacket. I already own a few copies and anxiously await a new release in a melton wool or cotton twill.

From the archives: Finick’s overalls and coveralls

April 30, 2017

I don’t mindlessly say that the past is better when thinking about garb, print catalogs, and catalog copy. I keep a folder of evidence on my desktop and periodically pick out my fave examples. I used to save catalogs and scan them myself. Now, I just grab snaps from the pinterest/flickr/tumblr stew. Here are a few adds for Finck’s “Detroit-Special” overalls. You can read about the company on the Detroit Historical Society site. I haven’t found visual evidence, but according to the DHS, ‘[c]hanges to the factory work force during World War II necessitated marketing to women, and the company introduced the word “modest” in their advertisements – along with an endorsement from an unnamed Miss America.” If you have ever seen a Finck’s ad for women, let me know.

The visuals below speak for themselves but I will add that  I love the confident use of white space space, the clinical anatomization of the product (showing its features and selling them at the same time), and the absolutely charming tag line: “wear’s like a pig’s nose.”

fincks4

fincks3

fincks6

 

 

Aspirational Anatomica

December 17, 2016

I first encountered Japanese brand Anatomica via a Paris shop that carried canvas deck shoes (Sperry repros) and modified last Aldens. Recently, I started following the Anatomica Instagram feed which provides a better optic on their Tokyo store offerings (from brogues to berets). I’m primary smitten by their spare, unisex, sanded down military styles (lots of olives, beiges, flight jackets, khakis, anoraks) modeled by both men and women. Engineered Garments for an older, upscale audience. The Anatomica IG feed provides daily surprises like the sudden appearance of a broom motif or creative color blocking. At the moment, I’m wishing I could purchase the recently featured, padded pullover puffer which I’m declaring the official garment of 2017. Look for yourself.

screen-shot-2016-12-17-at-8-52-20-am

screen-shot-2016-12-17-at-8-57-38-am

screen-shot-2016-12-17-at-8-52-05-am

screen-shot-2016-12-17-at-8-56-10-am

screen-shot-2016-12-17-at-8-57-02-am

screen-shot-2016-12-17-at-8-54-28-am

screen-shot-2016-12-17-at-8-54-43-am

 

 

Shopping from the past: Hebden Cord equestrian breeks

December 3, 2016

From eBay, a great example of a refreshing, non-minimalist clothing design: wool twill riding breeches by Hebden Cord (the now defunct country clothier from Hebden Bridge, York). I love to see clothing that deploys buttons and flaps in lieu of zippers or shaping panels to facilitate fit and max adjustability. I’m wondering about the date of manufacturer for this style/model (are those waistband buttons for suspenders?). My only catalog copy is from 2001 and it features a much more contemporary looking pair of riding trousers made from era-predictable poly blend  with zip fly and velcro closures. If you can date these breeks, email me or tweet me over at @archcloth.

 

s-l1600-1

s-l1600-5

s-l1600-3

s-l1600-7

s-l1600-6

s-l1600

4303276064_781b9b1a11_b5

 

More on Hebden Cord from Archival:

 

Hebden Cord cycling breeks

Archival Knickers

Shopping from 2001/2002: Hebden Cord

Shopping from The ShoeMart for Alden Seconds

November 25, 2016

On the less refined end of the SMU spectrum, here are some recent offerings of Alden seconds from TheShoeMart. In case you don’t know about this service, TheShoeMart quietly sells Alden seconds. New inventory notifications used to go out via email but now you can now browse listings online if you sign up for a special ShoeMart account. Even when I’m not in the marketing for Aldens, I love to browse the Alden seconds in search of  SMUs you won’t likely find in shops like Unionmade, Context or Leffot. I myself shop the list for hard-to-source Aldens in smaller sizes (like 5.5 and 6) most likely en route to Japan. Here are some recent finds:

afd_fd-18710_8_d-fd-18710afd_fd-40023_11-5_d-fd-40023

afd_fd-56403_7-5_d-fd-56403

 

afd_fd-a5101_6-5_e-fd-a5101

afd_fd-99220f_10_d-fd-99220f

 

Earlier Archival blog posts on Aldens:

Field Trip to The Moulded Shoe in NYC

Alden SMUs from Japan

Alden Surgical Boots

 

#Farmcore

October 23, 2016

Searching for generic images for a u/x personas project, I happened upon the Exactitudes project featuring typologies, the dress codes, of people wearing similar garb. My fave series, of course, features a social group identified as “farmcore.” I’m not sure what  constitutes farmcore aside from sporting a stylish Barbour jacket (preferably from the original, made in UK line). Even though everyone in the series is wearing a Barbour (in a uniform pose), what stands out for me is the uniqueness, the original wear and tear of each jacket in the series. Here are a few of my fave poses:

151_05-1151_12

151_10

151_09

151_08

151_04 151_01

151_06