Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Announcing Handy Bag

April 4, 2019

Since Archival closed, Tom and I have been meeting for pizza and plotting a new bag brand. We love bags and still think the world is missing a few models.

Our latest project is called Handy Bag (or Handy for short).

We’re keeping things simple, functional, affordable and durable.

In May, we will be releasing one bag, a zip top musette, in two colorways: olive and gray.

Our ingredient list will look familiar to Archival Clothing fans: canvas duck, metal hardware/rivets and zippers, and cotton webbing.

This time, we’re sourcing materials that are easier to buy in smaller quantities and lend themselves to repurposing across multiple models. Look for bags made of dry finish canvas duck in a narrower range of colors and metal hardware in nickel rather than brass.

As with Archival, Handy bags will be sewn in Springfield, Oregon, by a top quality shop that specializing in heavy duty product offerings for the bike industry (Terry Shuck, the owner, used to work for Burley design).

Where will you find Handy?

Tom and I kicked around the idea of managing everything by mail order ala Zo bags.

Zo Bike Messenger bags
Mail order inspiration: Zo Bag order form from the 1990s

Instead, we’re collecting emails and planning to send out an announcement once the first bags are ready for sale (most likely in early May). We will also keep followers updated on our assorted social channels.

For the time being, we are keeping everything small scale and fun. In the end, we’re making bags that our missing from our own collections. Reversing a popular U/X mantra: we are our end users (and very best customers).

We will also be hosting a pop up show in Eugene, Oregon, in May (details TBD).

Email me (archivalblogger@gmail.com) if you would like to be added to our mailing list.

Also, if you want to stay posted on our project, keep an eye on the Archival blog and follow us on Instagram @tombonamici @gridwax @archivalclothing


Tom selecting canvas duck for our first production run
Tom selecting canvas duck for our first production run



plans to restart something small and sustainable. We missed making bags that

Engineered Garments x Barbour

March 6, 2019

What are your expectations for an iconic brand collaboration? In the case of Barbour x Engineered Garments, I’m looking for more of a Shackleton crackup, corduroy collar meets crazy pocketing. These jackets are a little subdued for my tastes, a too polite exchange of zippers, snaps & fabric.

ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket

ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket
Arthur Waistcoat (Engineerd Garments x Barbour)
Arthur Waistcoat (Engineerd Garments x Barbour)
Arthur Waistcoat (Engineerd Garments x Barbour)
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Irving Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Irving Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
South Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
South Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
South Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Unlined Graham Jacket

ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Unlined Graham Jacket

Beams Boy Office Style Fair

March 2, 2019

Office style, by Beams Boy

A spot check on the Beams Boy Instastory redirected me to this curious “office style fair” capsule collection. I’m still trying to put my finger on the persona or segment archetype represented by this clothing.

My guess: Jules and Jim meets Tokyo librarian.

Archival DIY: Reproofing Waxed Cotton (updated)

March 1, 2019
Martexin reproofing wax. Operating instructions on the can.

Archival Clothing endorses waxed cotton because it’s a rugged, natural, water resistant fabric that requires only wax reproofing to maintain its finish. Waxed cotton users should know how to reprooof their jackets, hats, and bags. Both Filson and Barbour offer factory reproofing services but we recommend performing the work yourself (at least once). Reproofing waxed cotton is relatively easy and personalizes the care and maintenance of your garment. Even if you live in the desert, you should establish a reproofing schedule for your waxed cotton. Reproofing extends the life of waxed cotton and prevents it from developing the folds and wear lines that often lead to holes.

I do my reproofing in August so I can move the work outdoors.

Basic tools: wax (warmed), water, sponge, blow dryer (or heat gun). If you’re using our 1.5 ounce tin, spoon some wax into a bowl and heat briefly in microwave. Some people recommend using Filson wax, say, with a Filson product, but I’ve switched between several brands of wax treatment (Filson, Barbour and Martinex) with the same results. I will concede that for a full reproofing job on a jacket, the larger tins of Barbour reproofing wax are easier to heat in a double boiler.

Dab off dirt with a moistened sponge. Do not use soaps or detergents.

Use clean sponge to spread warmed reproofing wax thinly on fabric. Short strokes work best.

Reheat surface of item with blow dryer to melt the wax into the fabric.

Reapply wax until it evenly coats the bag.
Restored to original factory finish
I still have wax left so I’m reproofing a couple of my Filson duckbill caps
You’ll be moving back and forth between wax applications and the blow dryer
Don’t expect the wax to glaze evenly over fabric. You’ll need to work it into the surface.

 

There! You’ve shopped from yourself. These rewaxed hats are better than new. Let the sun help w/the final reproofing. Use a blow dryer again if you find any remaining, unmelted spots of wax. If you’ve overdone it, fear not, daily use and rain will wear down the excess wax.

Hender Scheme reverse nylon cap

February 27, 2019

It’s winter and I’m months away from wearing anything made out of ultralight nylon. However, I’m curious about this Hender Scheme trail cap that was recently featured in a recent Takanna e-newsletter (the only Gmail inbox promotions folder fodder I don’t delete). I love that the cap is reversible, pocketable, and unstructured — things that make it perfect for dry weather hiking, flyfishing or cycling (as an under-helmet sun shade).

Bonus: the adjustable cinch cord gives the cap a surprising bit of adjustability. I’m also a fan of the low crown and floppy brim. Glad to see some brands moving away from stiff peeked, rigid brimmed trucker hats (ugh).

Complaint: I’m not wild about the large leather logo patch, but that’s a detail that could easily be tweezered away.

“Origin is Everything”: Rin Project Cycling Sweaters

February 12, 2019

Each refresh of the Japanese cycling outfitter Rin Project site reveals a new product obsession: wool cycling sweaters, retro hairnets, knicker hose, mod coats, leather cycling shoes and Brompton compatible shoulder satchels.

My top Rin Project product pick is this cycling pullover with retro-inspired front carrying pockets and wool sourced from the UK. It reminds me of the derby tweed sweaters that Rivendell Bicycle Works used to make in the 1990s.

This is the sweater to wear during your recreation of the Tyneside endurance test.

Shopping for myself: Rocky Mountain Featherbed Down Vest

December 24, 2018

It’s 2018, Amazon prime time, and I love that there are still brands that I can only buy in Japan. My running list: Rin Project, Danton, AnatomicaBeams x Fennica, Orcival and Rocky Mountain Featherbed. Obsession of the month:  Rocky Mountain Featherbed (RMF)  Six Month Vest (aside admiration for the slightly off kilter translation of RMF’s Japanese-English product names). What brings me back to Japan-only clothing are the fresh designs and build quality (even on everyday, less-than-luxe items).  RMF, like all my fave brands, design products in dual lines sizes for men and women (rather than shoehorning everyone into unisex styles). Note: colorways are the same for men and women.

Rocky Mountain Featherbed Six Month down vest

Rocky Mountain Featherbed Six Month down vest

Rocky Mountain Featherbed Six Month down vest

Rocky Mountain Featherbed Six Month Vest

Reinforcing twill tape and locker loop

 

Stuff sack for six month down vest

Every garment has its own stuff sack

Rocky Mountain Featherbed down muffler

Matching down muffler

Catch and Release: Mister Freedom Chore Coats

July 18, 2018

For gents, there is no shortage of chore coats in fascinating cuts and fabrics. Here are a few of my faves on offer (and on sale) from Mister Freedom (via Self Edge). Also, I need to know: who is this handsome, bearded, deadpan, denim fit model? What memory traces does he carry, having worn so many amazing, high dollar workwear garments over the years? What is his daily (after hours) uniform?

Mister Freedom Belleville – Covert Stripe

Mister Freedom Belleville Jacket – Covert Stripes

Mister Freedom Belleville Jacket

Mister Freedom Conductor Jacket

Patchwork Dreams

July 11, 2018

I spotted this patchwork chore coat from Tigre Brocante last Fall. Unfortunately, a half year later, the jacket (nicely styled for men and women), has disappeared from the site.  You may not be able to buy this jacket, but you can still mimic the look. Check out Corridor’s Duck Dyed Overshirts (on sale) as a worthy, patch-free alternate. Pair w/Corridor Bucket Hat and Troentorp (mandatory style staple) for a seasonless, timeless, unisex ensemble.

 

Aspirational Aviators

June 4, 2018

I’m swooning over the French aviators (and their uniforms) found in a new  Flickr album uploaded by archival image maven, Pillpat. Check it out, noting all the new-to-my-eyes, sartorial details: unique pullovers, cool tunics, curious collars, striped socks and military-duty clogs. Sign me up for any branch of service that issues such lovely off-duty garb (off-duty, in this case, consisting ofcafe confabs and larky posing for the camera). Marking these snaps as catalog fodder for my aspirational clothing company.