Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Archive for June, 2009

Archival Details: 1930s Filson Cruiser

June 30th, 2009







Here’s a vintage, 1930s-era Filson cruiser jacket up for auction on ebay. The seller emailed the other day because he was trying to date the jacket and saw a similar version on my flickr photostream. Pricepoint for the jacket is too steep for me. However, I asked permission to post some auction photos to document design details– snaps, garment tag, double fabric arms, perfect pocking, stitching style–still found on current generation cruisers.

Randomly, at some point, I’d like to coordinate a comprehensive database of historical Filson garments, catalogs and print ephemera.
Related complaint: why has Filson not introduced a version of the Cruiser (a scaled down exact replica) for its women’s product line? If you were developing a heritage collection for women, wouldn’t you start with your most iconic garment (rather than offering new style shirts and jackets that just as easily could have been produced by LL Bean or Lands End or Liz Claiborne?).

1920s era Filson (split pockets!)


1930s-era Tin Cruiser

1949 “Shedpel” brand cruiser (rebadged Filson?)

Dry finish (Fil-Duck?) Cruiser from the mid-1980s

Filson Cruiser available now

From the Archives: Barbour 1998/99

June 25th, 2009

Oilskins and black waxed cotton

Long and short cuts

Moleskin

Synthetics

90s knitwear


New Barbour gent

In case you missed it, here are some product offerings from the Winter 1998/Spring 1999 Barbour catalog. In the day, these catalogs were the best means of tracking new Barbour releases (beyond the stock range of Bedales, Beauforts and Borders). Many of the more exotic items–moleskin and Bushman jackets–never made it to (my corner of the) US. So, it was always fun to see non-stock Barbour items in cameo catalog form.

Barbour’s newfound focus on youthful/urban/non-country clothing gave rise to a few unfortunate (though brief) additions to their product range:

Vintage in ten years?

Filson Field Bags in Film: Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (Eastwood 1997)

June 21st, 2009
Bridle leather shoulder strap

Friend Vaughn W. (of bike collection fame) sent me these cameo views of a Filson Medium Field Bag from the film, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (Eastwood 1997). Aside from the bag and Johnny Mercer/jazz soundtrack, I don’t remember much about the movie itself. Worth revisiting?

Archival Eyewear: 1968 Preview

June 13th, 2009






High School (Wiseman 1968)

An article in the June 10, 2009 Thursday Styles section of the NY Times declared round sunglasses the hot fashion trend of 2009. Article author Eric Wilson writes:

This summer…the memo for sunglasses says circles are in. Very round shapes, as round as goggles in some cases, appeared in the recent women’s collections of Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler; and, for men, from Ralph Lauren, Zegna and Lanvin (most costing from $300 to $400). Last month, New York magazine included round sunglasses among the anticipated trends of the summer. And, as predicted, they are already appearing on the streets in numbers not seen since the release of the last Harry Potter book.

I present some eyewear examples from Frederick Wiseman’s 1968 documentary, High School, as possible candidates for the next “newest old thing” for 2010.

And an addendum:

2019 preview: “Tyrell” edition spectacles

Archival Revival: Barbour Retriever Bag

June 11th, 2009

1990s catalog

1980s catalog


One of my favorite Barbour bags, the Sports Twin Pack (rebadged the Waxed Cotton Retriever Bag), is once again available. I sold off my original version a few years ago due to an intense mildew odor (the problem with purchasing “vintage” barbour on ebay). I’d definitely like to secure a new version (UK made, I hope) before it disappears again.

I’ve always coveted the simple, unstructured musette-style of this bag (designed to be carried over the shoulder or worn on the belt of a Barbour International jacket). In fact, I’ve been drawing design inspiration from original catalog images of the sports twin pack for my own waxed cotton musette project.
Available here (UK)
Available here (UK)
And here (US)

Just stumbled on this more minimalist version of the Retriever Bag (pockets on an envelope):

Waxed Cotton A7 Bag (same strap as International belt)