Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Archive for June, 2011

Archival Update: Chester Wallace, Columbiaknit, Individualized, Sunspel and Leatherhead Sports

June 29th, 2011

We’ve added some new summer weight clothing and archival accessories to the AC web shop.

Individualized madras shirts (popovers too)

Sunspel polos

Saint James Nemo all cotton nautical top

Columbiaknit long sleeve crews

AC x Chester Wallace tote with “old glory” red wax bottom

Shopping from the movies: Shoot the Moon (Parker 1982)

June 24th, 2011

Some films are better watched on fast forward or reproduced as film stills. Shoot the Moon (Parker 1982) is just such a movie — playing out like an Ingmar Bergman domestic drama populated by Woody Allen characters. While we’re asked to focus on the dissolving marriage of Albert Finney and Diane Keaton, one’s eye cannot help but wander to the the family’s shared taste in classic clothing: wonderful cotton plaids, knits, woolens and jackets sourced (perhaps) from venerable brands like Barbour, Woolrich and Pendleton.

I’ve reproduced a few stills for reference:


Rugby stripes and heritage garb for kids

Knit cardigans

Plaids (and pencil sharpeners)

Barbour Solway Zipper jackets (and a fetching duffle)

Woolrich jac-shirts

Down vests
Pendleton blanket robes

Cotton knit caps

And a few a household accessories:

Rotary phones

Backyard tennis courts
Family station wagons

Shopping from the present: Old Town Clothing

June 23rd, 2011

by Jim Green


Editor’s note: it’s never too early to start planning your Fall wardrobe. I’m already mentally packing up the linens and breaking the corduroy. London blogger Jim Green of Modern Day Hunting writes about his obsession with British workwear company, Old Town Clothing. If you’re inspired by Jim’s report to order something from OTC, start the process now as it takes 4-6 weeks to complete.

After recently hearing me waxing lyrical about my favourite clothes maker – Old Town, Archival Clothing have kindly asked me to give a customer review of some of their items. Living in London UK it is of course easier for me to travel up to their Norfolk showroom to get items fitted and made for me. So hopefully this might help you make a decision on giving them a try if you are not UK based.

I first heard about Old Town in 2009 via some random person on the street asking me if the French workwear jacket I had on was from Old Town, it wasn’t, but later that night I decided to google them to find out more. After finding them it felt like it was my lucky day, a place where I could buy all the clothes I had imagined I would like but simply had no idea where to source them from.

I spent many hours perusing the site but simply couldn’t decide what to get – my main concern was sizing. They make their clothes to order so not quite like buying from a shop normally although they do cater for returns. So after much deliberation I plumped for a safe bet and ordered a straight edge waistcoat (vest to you US folks) in engineer’s navy stout cotton twill. Size wise I was unsure, I am usually a 38 so stuck to that. All of Old Town‘s items are made to order, you choose the size and fabric, pay either via the phone or the online ordering form. For overseas you will need to email first to discuss shipping etc. Their turnaround time for garment delivery is approximately 4-6 weeks. For me half the charm of buying from them is the wait.

Straight edge waistcoat in navy stout cotton twill (via OTC)

Four weeks later the waistcoat arrived, it fitted great, the waistcoats are slightly fitted so if you want a looser fit go up a size maybe. I was now officially hooked. I managed to plan in a trip up to the showroom a few months later with a rough idea of what I was after, upon arrival and seeing all the clothes on display I immediately got flummoxed…too many nice things. Their items are all pretty much spot on size-wise. I have quite a few pieces from them now and have been ordering a few times a year for spring and winter bits. Instead of giving an extensive list here’s a few items that are worth considering and I will try to give enough info for if you wanted to order from overseas without trying on first.

Old Town Clothing Overall jacket (via OTC)

Jim’s Overall jacket

Overall Jacket – This is a sure fire winner and possibly my favourite garment from them. The fit is fairly boxy but not in a big baggy way, it looks good. I would safely say you can feel confident that your own normal jacket size is going to fit, but please discuss it with the ever helpful Marie either via phone or email if you have concerns. They don’t do different sleeve lengths unless you go to the showroom specifically and get measured, mine measures 24.5 inches from the top of the shoulder to the cuff, I didn’t have the sleeves adjusted that’s how they came. However bear in mind my jacket has been washed once, I have had it for a few years now so take my arm measurement as a very rough indication of size. I would say you could safely order your normal jacket size with no sleeve adjustment and the fit would be good, this one is in grey stout twill. For the other jackets in their range the same rule applies but do bear in mind that some are more fitted than others. I own two Stanley jackets in 38 also, they are a slimmer fit but still fit me well.

Jim’s Dreadnoughts collection

Dreadnoughts – These are great trousers, the first pair I got was in the tan corduroy, I liked them so much that I ordered a pair in biscuit twill about a month later. I just recently got some summer lightweight 10oz denim ones as well. Waist size wise they are spot on. they all come as a standard 32 inch leg. If you are worried about leg length then get them as they are and have them tailored yourself so that the fit is right, I wear turn ups on the cotton ones so it’s not a problem. They are super comfy and sit fairly high up on the waist. All the Old Town stuff improves with age, these are no exception. They also have a rather novel fastening which I now prefer to the normal button fly. Shape wise they are quite loose down the leg but fitted around the waist. I also own some high rise, all their trousers are exact on their waist sizes so order with confidence.
Dreadnoughts in Irish Linen (via OTC)

If you can ever fit in a visit to the UK and to Old Town I recommend it highly, just ensure you know exactly what you want before you get there or else you will come out with twice as many items as you intended! Do factor in some extra time to wander around the town of Holt and also the surrounding area and coastline, it’s a lovely place.

June 20th, 2011

I picked up a large, US-made Seal Line roll top backpack with my REI dividend. Made in the USA, it’s roomy and well-made. Since it’s made of nylon, many of the joints are welded rather than sewn, a bit unsettling but no doubt stronger than a stitch.

While I loved the massive capacity and no-brainer roll top closure, I must admit that I wasn’t thrilled with the bag.

The back panel looks like it would keep you cool, but my back got just as sweaty under this pack than any other, including our own.


Also, the outside pocket was difficult to access due to a cramped size and stiff zipper. I ended up leaving it open most of the time, and even so, it was tough to reach inside. Furthermore, I wonder why they put the daisy chain on a side of the bag rather than the center – when the bag is full, your bike light ends up blinking more to the side than the rear.


Finally, the extremely stiff material and sharp corners of the rolled top meant that my over-the-shoulder view (to check for cars) was blocked, which was downright scary.

I appreciate that the bag is made in the USA, but it’s not the one for me!

Shopping from the Past – Kletterwerks

June 19th, 2011


I’ve been a rabid Dana Designs fan since I started climbing in the early 1990s. I have a late 1980s Bomb Pack for which I traded a beloved Lowe Contour Mtn. 40 (another all-time favorite pack), and I also have a Hoodoo Spire which has seen serious use as a day hiker.

I was lucky enough to pick up a nearly mint condition Kletterwerks pack at a recent estate sale. It’s the clear precursor to my Dana Bomb pack – a tall and narrow toploader, with a trim profile and excellent load cinching abilities.

Also, it was designed by the same person – Dana Gleason founded Kletterwerks in 1975, Dana Designs in 1985, and is now at the helm of Mystery Ranch.

I’m excited to use the Kletterwerks pack. It’s super lightweight, being completely frameless in the vein of a Jensen/Rivendell. I’ll be sliding a piece of closed-cell foam in the back panel pocket and hitting the trail this weekend. Since you might not be able to come along, here are a few more Kletterwerks packs I’ve skimmed off of the internet.




Rolltop Review

June 16th, 2011

I picked up a large Seal Line roll top backpack with my REI dividend. Made in the USA, it’s roomy and well-made. Since it’s made of nylon, many of the joints are welded rather than sewn, a bit unsettling but no doubt stronger than a stitch.

While I loved the massive capacity and no-brainer roll top closure, I must admit that I wasn’t thrilled with the bag.

The back panel looks like it would keep you cool, but my back got just as sweaty under this pack than any other, including our own.

Also, the outside pocket was difficult to access due to a cramped size and stiff zipper. I ended up leaving it open most of the time, and even so, it was tough to reach inside. Furthermore, I wonder why they put the daisy chain on a side of the bag rather than the center – when the bag is full, your bike light ends up blinking more to the side than the rear.

Finally, the extremely stiff material and sharp corners of the rolled top meant that my over-the-shoulder view (to check for cars) was blocked, which was downright scary.

I appreciate that the bag is made in the USA, but it’s not the one for me!

Shopping from the present: Cooperstown Ball Cap Co.

June 16th, 2011
Tom sporting the short brimmed 1927 Portland Beavers Cap

Last March I lamented the loss of the Cooperstown Ball Cap Co. To my relief, Cooperstown has resurfaced with a new focus on caps from minor league and non-professional leagues. Cooperstown Ballcap Co. manufactures reproduction caps from bygone eras using original methods and materials. These caps are made from a sturdy wool flannel and feature a soft leather sweatband, just like the originals. Sized for a true fit, with a 3 inch brim. Because of our Northwest heritage, we have reissued the following caps from the Pacific Coast League: the Portland Beavers (1927 & 1956) and Seattle Rainiers (1941 & 1956).

To order, visit the AC web shop.

Best quality wool flannel

Pacific Coast League caps from the original Cooperstown catalog

Archival Outing

June 15th, 2011

We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to take a Sunday afternoon paddle by canoe on the McKenzie River. The promise of fish and fine riparian views outweighed our reluctance to venture out into the drizzle. What care we when we have the best waxed cotton outerwear for the worst Oregon Spring in recent memory.

Rick’s prized Grumman (a transplant, like Rick, from Minnesota)

Namesake

Prized canvas duck duffle (family heirloom)

Flies tied for the occasion

Preparing to launch

My assignment

In full wax garb

Passing view

Non archival footwear (and Filson fly-fishing strap vest)

Recommended substitution

Success! (first of several)

Archival Countdown: Paris-Brest-Paris

June 12th, 2011

I (Lesli) just formalized registration for Paris-Brest-Paris. In 70 days 22 hours 6 minutes and 3 seconds I’ll be joining 6000+ cyclists from around the world for a 1200k Grand Randonnee. The ride will take me from the suburbs of Paris to the coastal town of Brest and back. Riders will have 90 hours to complete the course. Several friends of Archival friends will also be participating including Gabe Ehlert of Box Dog Bikes and Chris Kostman of AdventureCorps.

Post PBP, I’ll be staying in Paris (in the Marais) for a week. Please send along shop, tour and food recommendations. I’ll be on the hunt for archival office supplies and the perfect French work jacket.

I propose a future edition of PBP requiring city bikes and street clothing

My wool jersey line up for P-B-P

Vanilla will be going too