Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Archive for January, 2013

Archivel Field Trip – Nepenthes NYC

January 31st, 2013

Last week, Archival dropped in on the Monday eve pop-up shop and Kenzo Minami gallery opening at Nepenthes, one of our favorite NYC shops.  Nepenthes was so packed that we were capsule released into the space in timed intervals.   In line, we bumped into a number of fellow Market Week participants who had also come to demonstrate their Engineered Garments brand fandom.  Here are a few snaps from the event and our follow up shopping expedition.

  

 


Fellow Oregonian – Bob from the Lizard Lounge

FWK Cruiser Jacket
Catch and release gauchos
  
Stunning, all canvas duck anorak

  
Skookum stadium jackets

Rare bird – McNairy Brogues for women
Current crush – Engineered Garments belted Storm Coat..

…expertly styled by Najee of Sir & Madame

Archival Report – ProjectNYC

January 28th, 2013

We had a great time participating in the MADE by Project pop up show in NYC.  This week, I’ll be posting photographs from the event.  Today, I wanted to reprint snaps of three of my favorite Project exhibtors – Rising Sun Jeans, Arn Mercantile and Chippewa Boots.

 Mike Hodis, Rising Sun founder
 Mike’s custom Rising Sun boots (daily drivers)
Brendan in his day 3 layers, Archival knit cap
 
Khue in her belted, heritage ensemble
Tom modeling a new Rising Sun vest style

Me (LL) sporting an indigo plaid waistcoat patterned for women
Project visitor wearing his Rising Sun work apron

Rising Sun Jeans – as finished on the inside as the outside

As a longtime fan of the classic, Chippewa made, LL Bean Engineer boot, I was thrilled to see the relaunch of Chippewa’s new heritage inspired line of boots  Chippewa is now creating a footwear line based on original, historical models from the company archives.  Even the brand packaging and Vibram soles on the new boots are based on an original designs that had to be remanufactured for the brand relaunch.   Per usual, I submitted my request to have Chippewa size the line down so that it could be worn by women or gents with smaller feet. 
  
Neil, co-founder, Arn Mercantile

  


The Archival booth was fortuitously located across the way from Arn Mercantile,  a UK brand that blends traditional, 1920s workwear style with Japanese fabrics and expertly tailoring.  Check out the Arn website to read a terrific interview with Neil in which he discusses Arn’s brand history,  production methods, fit philosophy, etc.  

Archival Field Trip – Project NYC

January 21st, 2013
  
If you’re in NYC for market week, drop by and visit Archival at Project.  We’ll be participating in MADE by PROJECT,  a pop-up concept comprised of some of our favorite heritage brands creating products on the floor.  While I won’t be hammering grommets or bartacking web belts, I will be wandering the show taking snaps and greeting far flung friends and blog readers.   Show information here.
 

Archival Turntables: Califone Promenade

January 18th, 2013
In lieu of going to the gym, I’m hosting an LP recreation hour at home.  My turntable of choice is the portable Califone Promenade.  I was fortunate enough to score mine at a local Boys & Girls Club garage sale.  The Promenande is a tube amp player with speed adjustments for 16, 33, 45 and 78 rpm records.  It also doubles as a low watt PA system in case you need to direct a local pep rally or communicate with your neighbors from a remote location.  The entire unit folds up into its own portable case.  Inspired by Frank Fairfield, I have dreams of carrying my Califone on flights as my only carry on luggage. The Promande is a relatively rare Califone unit.  If you love records and you don’t want your LP sound system tethetered to a specific room, sift ebay listings for the more common solid state model.   Here are some photographs of a rare bird Promenade currently on offer via this auction.  But it now!


  

 

Archival Knitwear: The Zip Cardigan

January 10th, 2013
Our Zip Cardigans are made by our friends at Centralia Knitting Mills. Knitted from worsted wool on circular knitting machines from the 1930s, the fabric is sturdy, warm, and pill resistant. This historical sweater design features a low rib knit shawl collar, a two-way brass zipper, and knitted cuffs. Double thickness elbows reinforce that wear point without an unsightly external patch. Pocket bags are trimmed with multi-weave wool.


The fit is trim and athletic – on the slim side of regular. They layer nicely over a button-down shirt or a sweatshirt. We love them fall, winter, and spring, worn either under an overcoat or, on more mild days, as outerwear in their own right. 

Extremely limited quantities. Available in Navy and Olive, only from our webshop.

 Centralia Knitting Mills has been knitting top-quality sweaters in Centralia, Washington since 1939. The wool used in these sweaters is sourced from New England and the zippers are made in Canada.

Archival Snow Sports

January 9th, 2013
Long before Warren Miller, Dwight Watson, amateur photographer and mountaineer, documented snow sport culture in the pacific northwest.  I’ve been browsing Watson’s 1940s era images on the UW Digital Collections site.  As a non-skier, I’m drawn to Watson’s more casual scenes showing sportsmen and women at rest – at the lodge, in ensemble poses.  As always, I endorse how outdoor clothing from the past resembles everyday garb.  There is very little evidence of performance fabrics or ski specific clothing in these images. I love the visual flourish of the Cross County skiers wearing neckties to finish their outfits.  Style in the face of a chill!

Browse through the Watson collection as inspiration for staging your own heritage snow sports day ala the great tweed run.


Archival Envy – FWK EG Aviator’s Jacket

January 7th, 2013

My wardrobe comes from three places: Archival, thift shops and FWK Engineered Garments.  Since 2010, I’ve been buying carefully selected pieces from Engineered Garments line for women.  I’ve amassed Bedfords in wool and corduroy plus a rotating collection of work shirts in chambray and broadcloth.  Just when I thought I was set with staple pieces for the next decade, FWK released this amazing Aviator’s jacket as part of their Fall 2012 line.

 
 

I shy away from replica, military style jackets – especially those with excess straps, buttons and/or trim.  For civilian use, these features, though eye appealing, interfere with the simple, weather repelling, on-off demands of my daily commute.  As it were, the EG Aviator jacket pares the original military style down to its essential features.   

The jacket is made up of an outer shell of cotton/nylon rip stop fabric with an internal wool liner.   Despite all sandwich of fabrics, the jacket does not feel bulky or limit arm or body mobility.  Nylon ripstop keeps out the Oregon rain while the thin wool lining adds a comforting, chill abating layer. In use, the jacket has an amazingly sporty, body hugging quality.

My two favorite jacket features are the corduroy lined hand warmer pockets (not pictured!) and the knit cuffs trimmed in wool.  

Instead of a full storm flap, the FWK EG jacket comes with a snap front, semi storm flap.  Here, I love the visual bling of these three snaps but the sturdy, two way zipper has a tendency to catch on the flap when I zip up the jacket.

FWK EG is one of the brands that still inspires seasonal lookbook anticipation. Here’s a snap from a Japanese site showing how the jacket could be styled with additional, counterpunctual patterns and layers