Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Posts Tagged ‘barbour’

Engineered Garments x Barbour

March 6th, 2019

What are your expectations for an iconic brand collaboration? In the case of Barbour x Engineered Garments, I’m looking for more of a Shackleton crackup, corduroy collar meets crazy pocketing. These jackets are a little subdued for my tastes, a too polite exchange of zippers, snaps & fabric.

ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket

ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Thompson Jacket
Arthur Waistcoat (Engineerd Garments x Barbour)
Arthur Waistcoat (Engineerd Garments x Barbour)
Arthur Waistcoat (Engineerd Garments x Barbour)
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Irving Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Irving Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
South Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
South Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
South Jacket
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Unlined Graham Jacket

ENGINEERED GARMENTS X BARBOUR
Unlined Graham Jacket

Archival DIY: Reproofing Waxed Cotton (updated)

March 1st, 2019
Martexin reproofing wax. Operating instructions on the can.

Archival Clothing endorses waxed cotton because it’s a rugged, natural, water resistant fabric that requires only wax reproofing to maintain its finish. Waxed cotton users should know how to reprooof their jackets, hats, and bags. Both Filson and Barbour offer factory reproofing services but we recommend performing the work yourself (at least once). Reproofing waxed cotton is relatively easy and personalizes the care and maintenance of your garment. Even if you live in the desert, you should establish a reproofing schedule for your waxed cotton. Reproofing extends the life of waxed cotton and prevents it from developing the folds and wear lines that often lead to holes.

I do my reproofing in August so I can move the work outdoors.

Basic tools: wax (warmed), water, sponge, blow dryer (or heat gun). If you’re using our 1.5 ounce tin, spoon some wax into a bowl and heat briefly in microwave. Some people recommend using Filson wax, say, with a Filson product, but I’ve switched between several brands of wax treatment (Filson, Barbour and Martinex) with the same results. I will concede that for a full reproofing job on a jacket, the larger tins of Barbour reproofing wax are easier to heat in a double boiler.

Dab off dirt with a moistened sponge. Do not use soaps or detergents.

Use clean sponge to spread warmed reproofing wax thinly on fabric. Short strokes work best.

Reheat surface of item with blow dryer to melt the wax into the fabric.

Reapply wax until it evenly coats the bag.
Restored to original factory finish
I still have wax left so I’m reproofing a couple of my Filson duckbill caps
You’ll be moving back and forth between wax applications and the blow dryer
Don’t expect the wax to glaze evenly over fabric. You’ll need to work it into the surface.

 

There! You’ve shopped from yourself. These rewaxed hats are better than new. Let the sun help w/the final reproofing. Use a blow dryer again if you find any remaining, unmelted spots of wax. If you’ve overdone it, fear not, daily use and rain will wear down the excess wax.

Rakuten roundup: recent finds for #ruggedladies

April 30th, 2017

Even when I am in austerity mode, I love to browse Rakuten to see what is on offer for Japanese shoppers. A decade later, I remain fascinated by all the licensed euro brands that show up in small Japanese web shops (Kempel, Danton, Yarmo, Sierra Designs, Brady, to name a few). I cannot think of another place in the world where brands and styles are imported, reimagined, and than sold exclusively to a domestic audience. Fortunately, Rakuten has developed a worldwide shipping service that has opened many webshops to international customers. I tend to browse the new shops for brands and than sift the used clothing sites for bargains. I am always looking for updates on staple items or cues as to how stylish Japanese customers are sporting their garb. Here are so recent finds.

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FWK Engineered Garments lab coat paired with rolled trousers and Parabook loafers. As someone who locked in my high water pant height years ago, I love the Japanese commitment to the extreme ankle exposure and socklessness.

 

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I love Japanese appetite for special white and off white color treatments. You won’t find these Brady bags or Barbour jackets in the US or UK.

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Several fave web shops have reached stasis in they model catalog clothing. The approach applies to men and women and goes something like: knit cap, long chore or lab coat, baggy trousers, socklessness and sneakers, clogs or loafers.

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Interesting twist on the UK Lavenham equestrian jacket. I like the idea that a summer jacket would be designed with a quilt lining. The pockets on the jacket are pitch perfect.

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I’ve seen a number of web shops market kids clothing to women. For me, this proves  that a customer base exists for heritage clothing resized to fit women (without compromising design details or creating separate colorways). I only wish more US apparel companies would adopt this approach (or at least expand the size offerings of the kids lines to include XL and XXL).

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Danton is my new FWK Engineered Garments. I love the round collar, windproof jacket. I already own a few copies and anxiously await a new release in a melton wool or cotton twill.

#Farmcore

October 23rd, 2016

Searching for generic images for a U/X personas project, I happened upon the Exactitudes project featuring typologies of people who wear similar uniforms. My fave typology from Exactitudes is the one featuring a group identified as “farmcore.” From afar, the only thing that seems to identify someone as farmcore is wearing a Barbour jacket. Things that I love about the photo series: the fit of the jackets (it’s ok to be a jacket to be oversized), the emphasis on older Barbour coats (Borders and Beauforts), and the individual styling. Take a look:

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Shopping from 1987 – Barbour catalog

November 20th, 2013

Thanks to Thornproof for providing me with access to this hard to find, 1987 Barbour catalog. Sharp eyed folks will note all the ways Barbour has tweaked and edited their line over the years. My two favorite models from this era are the Spey Wading Jacket and the Solway Zip – both discontinued. If you’re a Barbour Bedale fan, check out the earlier iteration with two flap pockets and no handwarmer pockets. If you were shopping from this catalog what would you buy?

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Shopping from the movies: The Queen (2006)

May 1st, 2012

Next to Montgomery Wards and Mamet’s State and Main, the Queen (Frears 2006) is my favorite shopping opportunities. I love to browse all the classic Barbours, Range Rovers, silk scarves, leather brogues, tweed keeperwear, cashmere crewnecks and matching dog breeds. Like a mail order house lost to time, The Queen stocks a small but deep selection of classic items – unchanged by fashion or consumer demand. Here are a few pages from my favorite catalog:











Archival Footwear – Clog Boots

January 3rd, 2012
Clog traces

Probably not for the faint of heart, clog boots are the polar opposite of those ghastly five-toed shoes. I’m fond of my worry-free Muck Boots for wet and cold conditions while working or playing outside. But upon revisiting the much-missed little log cabin, I was reminded of a more archival option – the clog boot.

Archival options from Barbour (not in current line). via Thornproof.

Clogmaster boots

The Clogmaster herself – a staunch clog advocate.

Phil Howard boots with tin toe tips.

Phil Howard’s Gibson Lace.

Walkley Brogue Boot
The Walkley Farmer’s Clog (my optical favorite)
The Walkley Safety Clog

Walkley Para Boot

Jeremy Atkinson handmakes everything to order (even the wooden soles).

Archival Fieldtrip – NYC/Brooklyn

December 22nd, 2011

Snap views of my recent visit to NYC/Brooklyn.

Wages of Fear – best film I’ve seen in ages. If you live in NYC, you should be at the movies right now.

Kiosk – home of Reference Library’s famous Steele tote in black.
















Bridgestone MB-1 in Manhattan



At the Oak Room with Andrea Marcovicci, Syl & Sara