Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Posts Tagged ‘barbour’

Rakuten roundup: recent finds for #ruggedladies

April 30th, 2017

Even when I am in austerity mode, I love to browse Rakuten to see what is on offer for Japanese shoppers. A decade later, I remain fascinated by all the licensed euro brands that show up in small Japanese web shops (Kempel, Danton, Yarmo, Sierra Designs, Brady, to name a few). I cannot think of another place in the world where brands and styles are imported, reimagined, and than sold exclusively to a domestic audience. Fortunately, Rakuten has developed a worldwide shipping service that has opened many webshops to international customers. I tend to browse the new shops for brands and than sift the used clothing sites for bargains. I am always looking for updates on staple items or cues as to how stylish Japanese customers are sporting their garb. Here are so recent finds.

5600-6

FWK Engineered Garments lab coat paired with rolled trousers and Parabook loafers. As someone who locked in my high water pant height years ago, I love the Japanese commitment to the extreme ankle exposure and socklessness.

 

0000084876000

0000078348001

0201-top01

I love Japanese appetite for special white and off white color treatments. You won’t find these Brady bags or Barbour jackets in the US or UK.

imgrc0081215735

Several fave web shops have reached stasis in they model catalog clothing. The approach applies to men and women and goes something like: knit cap, long chore or lab coat, baggy trousers, socklessness and sneakers, clogs or loafers.

0000070734002

Interesting twist on the UK Lavenham equestrian jacket. I like the idea that a summer jacket would be designed with a quilt lining. The pockets on the jacket are pitch perfect.

imgrc0089593020

I’ve seen a number of web shops market kids clothing to women. For me, this proves  that a customer base exists for heritage clothing resized to fit women (without compromising design details or creating separate colorways). I only wish more US apparel companies would adopt this approach (or at least expand the size offerings of the kids lines to include XL and XXL).

105706-01

Danton is my new FWK Engineered Garments. I love the round collar, windproof jacket. I already own a few copies and anxiously await a new release in a melton wool or cotton twill.

#Farmcore

October 23rd, 2016

Searching for generic images for a u/x personas project, I happened upon the Exactitudes project featuring typologies, the dress codes, of people wearing similar garb. My fave series, of course, features a social group identified as “farmcore.” I’m not sure what  constitutes farmcore aside from sporting a stylish Barbour jacket (preferably from the original, made in UK line). Even though everyone in the series is wearing a Barbour (in a uniform pose), what stands out for me is the uniqueness, the original wear and tear of each jacket in the series. Here are a few of my fave poses:

151_05-1151_12

151_10

151_09

151_08

151_04 151_01

151_06

 

Shopping from 1987 – Barbour catalog

November 20th, 2013

Thanks to Thornproof for providing me with access to this hard to find, 1987 Barbour catalog. Sharp eyed folks will note all the ways Barbour has tweaked and edited their line over the years. My two favorite models from this era are the Spey Wading Jacket and the Solway Zip – both discontinued. If you’re a Barbour Bedale fan, check out the earlier iteration with two flap pockets and no handwarmer pockets. If you were shopping from this catalog what would you buy?

8715954905_994746d2bd_b

8717066462_16dafe7be7_b

8717062674_f286e4e2bf_b

8717062962_4e274b51f0_b

8715944563_bb1dda7335_b

8717062384_ff85a5d303_b

8717065106_799dfc0dd3_b

8717067276_1a2e7288e6_b

8717068046_7e55f8d30f_b

8715949403_476baab186_b

8717074742_5db9e02b98_b(1)

8715950047_84caf154b1_b

8717069616_5271346973_b

8715952799_b6049755c8_b

8717070198_12805ce97e_b

8717070808_9ed0c95cd0_b

8715953537_3c5a67efe9_b

8717072900_1f5138c3c1_b

8715946549_c8da3dd260_b

8715942589_313f83b635_b

Shopping from the movies: The Queen (2006)

May 1st, 2012

Next to Montgomery Wards and Mamet’s State and Main, the Queen (Frears 2006) is my favorite shopping opportunities. I love to browse all the classic Barbours, Range Rovers, silk scarves, leather brogues, tweed keeperwear, cashmere crewnecks and matching dog breeds. Like a mail order house lost to time, The Queen stocks a small but deep selection of classic items – unchanged by fashion or consumer demand. Here are a few pages from my favorite catalog:











Archival Footwear – Clog Boots

January 3rd, 2012
Clog traces

Probably not for the faint of heart, clog boots are the polar opposite of those ghastly five-toed shoes. I’m fond of my worry-free Muck Boots for wet and cold conditions while working or playing outside. But upon revisiting the much-missed little log cabin, I was reminded of a more archival option – the clog boot.

Archival options from Barbour (not in current line). via Thornproof.

Clogmaster boots

The Clogmaster herself – a staunch clog advocate.

Phil Howard boots with tin toe tips.

Phil Howard’s Gibson Lace.

Walkley Brogue Boot
The Walkley Farmer’s Clog (my optical favorite)
The Walkley Safety Clog

Walkley Para Boot

Jeremy Atkinson handmakes everything to order (even the wooden soles).

Archival Fieldtrip – NYC/Brooklyn

December 22nd, 2011

Snap views of my recent visit to NYC/Brooklyn.

Wages of Fear – best film I’ve seen in ages. If you live in NYC, you should be at the movies right now.

Kiosk – home of Reference Library’s famous Steele tote in black.
















Bridgestone MB-1 in Manhattan



At the Oak Room with Andrea Marcovicci, Syl & Sara

Shopping from the Past: Barbour Solway Jacket

December 3rd, 2011
Barbour Solway on cover of 1967/68 catalog (via Thornproof)

I stopped receiving Barbour print catalogs several years ago. Browsing the online web shop, I have a hard time tracking the ever shifting Barbour lines (Beacon, Sporting, Gold Label, Heritage, Lifestyle, Ladies, etc). Favorite styles are disappearing behind new Barbours with printed linings, updated silhouettes and Steve McQueen plotlines. Many of the Barbours made from the original, “thornproof” 8 oz waxed cotton have been discontinued. Missing from the Barbour line for several years is one of my all time favorites, the Solway Zipper Jacket.

In its day, the Solway was one of Barbour’s flagship models. Here’s a nice illustrated summary of the Solway’s principal features which include three outside patch pockets, inside game pocket, wind cuffs and a buckle belt.

The Solway zip was designed as both a shooting and “fowling” jacket. It was quickly adopted for for general country wear.


Per the 1964/65 catalog patter, the Solway is well suited for use in cold, damp conditions: “The quest for the ideal coat is over, invincibly waterproof, able to stand up to endless hours of rain and not let one drop through.” Of all the Barbours, the Solway appears to have inspired the most testimonials. My favorite is the story of the gent whose Solway protected him from an enraged Zebra.

The buckle belt adds a dash of style
In 1961, the Solway zipper jacket had spinoff models including the Solway Smock

Here are a few historic examples of Solway Zipper jackets captured from ebay:





There seems to be a disturbing trend towards having the belt and belt loops removed on Solway jackets. Recent ebay auctions list this as a garment feature. Since this is a signature feature of the Solway, I strongly advise against this practice.


Loopless, beltless Solway Zipper Jackets

ST, in Solway, tramping through the W. 18th wetlands

I missed this special close out sale on Solway jackets via Sierra Trading Post. Ignominious end to a coat that once graced a catalog cover.

Archival Keeperwear

October 19th, 2011
Shopping from 2001: Barbour Keeperwear Jacket

I don’t hunt but I love the purpose-built features of a well made shooting jacket. Juliette, owner of Hub & Bespoke, recommends the Barbour quilted nylon Keeperwear, a jacket that has been in the Barbour product line for over a decade. The Keeperwear resembles the classic Liddesdale but comes with features that make it handy for both hunting and bike commuting: a rear carrying pocket, snap closures, raglan sleeves for ease of movement, protective shoulder patches to prevent bag abrasion, large hand warmer pockets and rear snap gussets. Barbour wax jackets can be too warm for cycling. The Keeperwear quilt, on the other hand, provides rain repellency while remaining highly breathable. I buy my quilts a size up so I can layer them over multiple sweaters and vests.

Updated Barbour Keeperwear (2011)

Stud fastening rear game pouch

Discontinued Keeperwear jacket for women via Sierra Trading Post

Waistcoat version also available

A decorative pin for your lapel (via ebay)