Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Posts Tagged ‘country clothing’

Archival Review: Shooting Waistcoats

September 25th, 2010

Try UK/European country clothing brands for top quality wool and tweed garments this fall. Companies like Hoggs of Fife, Barbour, Musto, Le Chameau, Chrysalis, Hucklecote, Purdey and Beretta produce practical, beautiful country clothing from best quality materials (mostly in their traditional country of origin).

In the fall, the waistcoat functions as a transitional wardrobe item, moving the user from bare armed summer to multisleeved winter. The vest allows freedom of movement while providing some protection from the elements. In contrast to the standard nylon puffy version, we love the tailored look of wool and waxed vests. Since they are designed for rugged use in the field, we know that they will last for ages. Archival Clothing endorses garments with well placed, well thought out pocketing. The pockets found on the shooting waistcoat, engineered to carry heavy shells, are my absolute favorites.

Here are a few of my favorite waistcoats, some within my pricepoint (Hoggs of Fife) and others exhibited as purely aspirational eye candy (Purdey). Most of the brands shown here offer waistcoats (and country clothing) for both men and women.

Barbour Westmoreland waistcoat (Archival Clothing favorite)

Austerity option:Hoggs of Fife waxed waistcoast

Musto Technical Tweed Waistcoat

Musto Luxury Tweed Waistcoat for women

Le Chameau Balmoral tweed shooting waistcoat

Beretta St. James vest

Nothing heavier in the pockets than a smartphone and small change

Shopping from 2004

Archival Footwear: Hoggs of Fife

December 30th, 2009

by Lesli Larson

James @ 10 Engines and I share a brand admiration for the Scottish countrywear company, Hoggs of Fife. Hoggs sells simply styled, superbly made country clothing in cord, moleskin and tweed (in sizes for men and women). Hoggs should have the visibility of a Barbour and sell at Oi Polloi next to Lavenham and Nigel Cabourne. Instead, HOF is stocked primarily by UK farm supply and country clothing shops (horse first, fashion second). I know of no known stockists in the US.

James has already posted images of a few of my favorite garments from Hoggs. I’d like to add one item to the inventory–the heavy weight cord trouser. Against prevailing trends, I prefer trousers with wide legs, a high rise and functional pockets. I normally shop for my trousers from the past (from Hebden Cord or Alpendale, before most of the mills closed up shop and the heavy cord looms were lost). Now, I have a present day option from Hoggs.

Hoggs heavyweight trousers

In addition to clothing, Hoggs offers sturdy looking, bench-made country footwear (leather shoes shod with double leather or commando soles for impromptu field use). I found the following catalog pages in my archives. They were sent to me ten years ago but a quick web check shows that most of the models are still in production–a sign of a true archival company:

Hoggs Footwear (199x?)

Archival News: Filson Portland store opening

November 16th, 2008






Friend Erin and I drove up to Portland yesterday to attend the new Filson Portland store opening. I felt bad about stepping out on the Portland Outdoor Store but it was nice to actually see all the women’s items displayed in a single, nicely lit showroom space (the outdoor store only carries a few pieces from the women’s Barbour line–but no Filson for women). Erin agreed to the trip as long as she/we could take a side trip to Woodland Woolenworks in Carlton, Oregon (a scenic yet depressed town with a wine tasting room on main street). Since Woodland only sells proto-woolen products (yarn, spinning machines, slipper bottoms, loom parts, sweater buttons), I amused myself by flipping through knitting publications (some nice patterns for socks and sweaters in this book) and contemplating the success of the knit boys.

The new Filson store is located in the Pearl district. I was expecting it to be more of a high ceilinged REI type establishment with fake rock walls and baskets full of cutesy accessories. As it turns out, the space is pretty diminutive and the few Filson accessories–flasks, wallets, playing card holders–perhaps reflecting their high price point, were displayed on simple rock beds under plexiglas).

I noted the presence of two main types of shoppers: husband and wife types (one more pro-Filson than the other) or younger hipsters(who sorted of drifted in and out of the shop w/out making purchases). Erin ended up waiting for me in the upstairs leather club chairs since I pretty much wanted to try on all the size & color combination of jackets I had been browsing for the past six months in catalog form.

As it were, we did not win the hourly door prize for an (ugly!) Alaskan guide shirt. I kept expenditures low and only purchased a pair of socks (for now).

After a long search and review, I’ve settled on the following two jackets as the best of the women’s collection: the women’s Wool Timber jacket and Women’s Tin Cloth Creek jacket.

Outside the store, we spied a fellow riding a nice Paramount fixed gear bicycle who seemed to have been inspired by the Filson westernwear look: wool watch cap, nice denim top and cowboy boots.


Hebden Cord Co. Ltd

November 5th, 2006



When my ship comes in I’m going to order up a full custom cycling suit from the folks at Hebeden Cord Co. Ltd (located, of course, in bespokelandia, Great Britain). First item in my order will be a pair of cycling “plusses” made out of an avantgard blend of twill and–gasp–stretch polyester (for the knee hinge, mind you).

Browsing through the Hebden Cord catalogue I come closest to realizing my central consumer fantasy: mail ordering from the past. The company’s catalogue cover image and product illustrations resemble ads from old singer sewing patterns or department store circular/flyers from the nineteen thirties. I’m sure that if ever do secure my cycling plusses I’ll be instantly transported back to a line drawing countryside scene in which I’m riding a Raleigh 3-speed against against orange acrylic sky.

In a future post I’ll showcase of my personal collection of fabric and leather swatches (a central tenet of my austerity practice–delaying purchase by mulling over an infinite number of customizeable features) including about thirty wool and corduroy samples from Hebden (who lack any sort of web presence and thus require formal written requests by post).