Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Archive for February, 2009

Guest Baggage: Brady Gelderburn

February 26th, 2009

Indigo Slims blog author and denim designer, Jessica L., sent me these photographs of her 18 month old Brady Gelderburn fishing bag. The bag is one of the largest in the Brady range and I questioned Jessica on her selection of this specific style (and on why the bag’s strap was already so frayed after so few months of use). She replied: “It’s quite a big bag for me and i have the strap long, but i am also guilty of overfilling – i use it every day as my handbag & for work stuff. it’s also picked up a little indigo from my jeans! occupational hazard.”
My own Brady inventory includes the diminuitive Norfolk, a Brady tote and a Japan-only rucksack. But I’ve always coveted the oversized Gelderburn as a travel bag every since I saw Michael Palin toting one around in his (recommended) BBC documentary, Around the World in 80 days (1989).

Palin shipboard with his Brady Gelderburn

Synthetic Exceptions: REI Jackets

February 25th, 2009

REI Shoeller Wool Torridon Jacket (n/a)

REI Kulshan Jacket (women’s edition)

Here are a few synthetic jackets I spotted during a recent visit to the sale racks at the Eugene REI. I wish I could find a photograph of the Torridon style jacket sans irritating, blonde model. REI also sells a version of this jacket for women. The women’s version, at least, has a great, trim fit and industrial age styling (no silly pleats or princess seams). The jacket is made out of a Schoeller wool-blend which I first discovered by way of Swrve, a So Cal which uses the material for its cycling knickers (beware of velcro which will snag the fabric)..

The Kulshan jacket works for me because it’s only one step removed from the Showers Pass jacket I use for cycling.

Per usual, I post these images as hypothetical examples of what I might buy if the heritage clothing industry collapses, relocates offshore of if I developed a late in life allergy to wool.

Everything in life should be this easy! REI Torridon features clean lines, minimalist design, warmth and comfort, and it looks great and travels well. Made with a water-resistant Schoeller wool-blend outer face and a warm, breathable polyester fleece interior. Two-way stretch ensures easy-to-move-in comfort and flatlock seams minimize bulk. Windproof to 55 mph. Comfort touches include a soft, tricot-lined collar, a chin guard to prevent zipper abrasion and a drawcord hem. Two zippered hand…

An epic climb to basecamp, a rigorous day of alpine touring, a fast push on snowshoes—REI Kulshan jacket with eVent™ fabric provides ultimate comfort.

  • eVent fabric has a unique membrane structure that allows sweat vapor to escape outside
  • No matter how hard you work, overheating is highly unlikely due to this Direct Venting™ Technology
  • And, because you remain dry on the inside, that uncomfortable, post-exercise chill is eliminated
  • eVent technology works so efficiently, no pit zippers are needed, and all seams are sealed for complete waterproof protection
  • Integrated helmet-compatible hood; drawcord adjustment allows full visibility
  • Features adjustable hem drawcord and snow-resistant rip-and-stick cuff tabs
  • Two mesh-lined, zippered front pockets sit clear of shoulder straps and hipbelt; jacket also includes a sleeve stash pocket
  • Two inner stretch mesh pockets hold skins, and one has an earphone cord port
  • Windproof to 60 mph

Per earlier posts, I’m pretty much opposed to synthetic outdoor clothing. Gore-tex shells don’t insulate, fleece fabrics collect pet hair, down vests with nylon shells don’t repell rain well and capilene underlayers smell after a few wears. Also, it goes without saying that synthetic fabrics just do not have the same eye appeal of wool or waxed cotton. I’m pretty certain there’s clinical research to support my claim (something involving heart monitors and skin grafs). If/when I do buy synthetics it’s usally for cycling where I need research-and-development-department breathability. REI sells a few garments which I high consider purchasing. One is the stape, orange X jacket made out eVent facric which is used in my

STP Salvage: Barbour and John Partridge

February 25th, 2009
Archival clothing excavations from Sierra Trading Post (discontinued items soon to be disappearing from view).

Wool Donegal Sweater
Keeperwear Quilt Jacket (for Women)
New Classic Eskdale Jacket

Newfoundland Quilt
Vintage Wax Beaufort

Linhope Shooting Vest (for Women)

Barbour Beauchamp Waterproof

Country Tweed Pullover

John Partridge Linchfield Vest

John Partridge Tuareg Hooded Jacket
John Partridge Rhino Tank Jacket (for Women)

And a submission to the retail category Why Was it Made?

Barbour Quilted Shoulder Tote

Shopping from flickr: Leather saddle bags

February 24th, 2009

I found Hollows Leatherwork while searching flickr for visual examples of the original, Rivendell leather saddlebag. Riv offered its original style bag in the early days of the company.I

Aside from Brooks and BillyKirk, there are very few companies who produce small leather saddlebags for cyclists.
I was very excited to find this clever, compact saddle bags from Hollows.

My interest in bikes is really bigger than my interest in leather when you get down to it. I’ve been a bicycle mechanic for many years and I’m also a UBI frame building grad. I have some ambitions in that direction, too, but they’ll have to wait until I’m a little more settled. My other flickr account is here:

As far as my interest in Archival brands goes, I’ve always been intrigued especially by companies who have 100-year-old designs that are still being made. The Red Wing 877, the Filson Tin Cruiser, and Duluth’s portage bags are all essentially the same now as they’ve ever been. As Grant Petersen would say, it’s not retro, they just had the wisdom to know that progress doesn’t always mean improvement. I try to do my work with some of that essence. My goal for each project is to make something simple, functional, beautiful and very durable. A dream come true for me will be the day the first thing I’ve made gets passed on to the original customer’s grandchild.

Rivendell Catalog #5

Moleskine holder with tongue and loop closure and once-around bracelet

Archival Knitwear: Rivendell Cycling Sweaters

February 23rd, 2009
Button-up neck (for on-bike temperature regulation)
Rear carrying pocket

Long sleeved version (photographed during mixte test ride at RBW)
Rivendell Bicycle Works used to sell a wonderful derby tweed sweater which they referred to as a long sleeved cycling jersey. The knit sweaters/jerseys were made by the British knitwear firm Outdoor Knitwear/Woolyback. They came in several different styles including a crew neck, a “polo shirt” version and a sleeveless vest. I own the vest and regret not purchasing a long sleeved, crewneck jersey (preferably, the crewneck). The wool for my vest is super durable, never pills, and come in a nice, timeless seafoam green color. Here’s a link to the original blurb from the Rivendell website. Don’t bother the kind folks at Rivendell about available stock. I believe the sweaters sold out several years ago although I have an archival petition in to bring them back (progress pending?). What I like about the Riv jerseys (beyond wool type and generic styling) is how well they integrate cycling or use-specific functionality (a rear carrying pocket and button up neck) into an everyday garment (making it equally appropriate for indoor-outdoor wear).

Wooly Warm garment tag and derby tweed wool close-up

Please email me photos of your Rivendell Wooly Warm sweaters, wool tops or jerseys. I’d like to post a full “catalog” of images of discontinued Wooly Warm woolens.
For interested parties, Rivendell just released issue # 41 of the Rivendell Reader (available for free download as a pdf file).

Shopping from 2005: EG Cardigan

February 21st, 2009

Random loomed wool remnants at Centralia Knitting Mills

I tend to dodge the release of current clothing lines since most items are typically beyond my price point (see new Barbour x designer collaborations), are only available in Japan/Italy/UK or end up being total design disappointments. 
In the last decade, however, there are a few new clothing items I truly regret not acquiring. First among them is the Engineered Garments random loomed sweater from the 2005 Fall/Winter collection.  At least in catalog form, it contains all the elements of a perfect sweater: wool, cardigan style, four front pockets, heavy duty two-way zipper and an overall (body hugging) trim fit.   I also love the random loomed wool.
I must say that I’d trade the entire new EG line for women for the reissue of one random loomed shooting cardigan.