James @ 10 Engines and I share a brand admiration for the Scottish countrywear company, Hoggs of Fife. Hoggs sells simply styled, superbly made country clothing in cord, moleskin and tweed (in sizes for men and women). Hoggs should have the visibility of a Barbour and sell at Oi Polloi next to Lavenham and Nigel Cabourne. Instead, HOF is stocked primarily by UK farm supply and country clothing shops (horse first, fashion second). I know of no known stockists in the US.
James has already posted images of a few of my favorite garments from Hoggs. I’d like to add one item to the inventory–the heavy weight cord trouser. Against prevailing trends, I prefer trousers with wide legs, a high rise and functional pockets. I normally shop for my trousers from the past (from Hebden Cord or Alpendale, before most of the mills closed up shop and the heavy cord looms were lost). Now, I have a present day option from Hoggs.
Hoggs heavyweight trousers
In addition to clothing, Hoggs offers sturdy looking, bench-made country footwear (leather shoes shod with double leather or commando soles for impromptu field use). I found the following catalog pages in my archives. They were sent to me ten years ago but a quick web check shows that most of the models are still in production–a sign of a true archival company:
Although I’ve been working mightily at the day job in the past few weeks, I’m considering a few options for a well-earned vacation once the holiday rush is through. Right now I’m leaning towards sailing. I’ll soon be slipping into Alan Villiers’ photos of the last of the tallships for some archival entertainment – reading on deck, musical entertainment, and sewing.
A month ago we promised musettes. Today, to our delight, we announce the delivery of our first run of the basic model in Waxwear waxed cotton. Bags are available in yellow or ranger tan. Our flap musette will be available in late January and we hope to follow up with a canoe-style rucksack in February. The Archival Clothing web shop will debut soon. In the meantime, if you’re interested in the basic model musette, email me (Lesli@archivalclothing).
Addendum: The musettes have sold out but we’ll be restocking in late January.
Thanks to all of you for your support of our bag project. 2010 should be an exciting year for us as we move (not totally) from archival admiration to archival production.
by Lesli Larson I’ve been wishful holiday shopping for discontinued Filson plaids. In Japan, you can purchase a classic Mackinaw cruiser, vest or matching hat in blue x black buffalo plaid, a fabric that was discontinued by Filson years ago. When I emailed Filson to ask about a custom order in the blue x black plaid, I was told that the fabric would not be available for domestic orders (though lap blankets and tote bags can still be found at Portland Filson).
As a consolation, I’ve been browsing the pages of a Filson catalog I reprinted here last summer (when I was more fixated on poplins and cruiser vests). The catalog taunts me with lost opportunities to own Filson garments that were the best of their kind–the forestry cloth hiking trousers and matching cruiser coat, for example. My latest nostalgic longing is for the red and black plaid cape coat (now only available in predictable greens and greys). I expect that many of the garments pictured below might be resurfacing in Japanese web shops in next year.
Blue x Black Mackinaw Coat
Red x Black Mackinaw Pants
Red x Black Cape Jacket
Original Hunting Vest
I’m including photos of the the original Filson cotton duck hunting vest, a favorite Filson design. The vest has a wonderfully arcane pocketing system and fits (me) like an A-frame tent. It was discontinued a few years ago but brought back by custom request. However, my understanding is that sales remain slow. So, please consider supporting the archival garment cause by purchasing one in 2010.
I started rock climbing when I was a pup of 8, but I’m afraid that it was already the age of neon tights and other unfortunate synthetics. However, as I browsed the climbing section of the Eugene Public Library, I came across quite a range of alternative climbing garb. Himalayan Climber, by Doug Scott, was one of my favorite volumes. I’ve checked it out time and time again, and I’m always rendered speechless by this perfect image:
Not only does the climbing look great (easy, exposed, solid), but Mr. Scott’s outfit is really beyond compare. A few more shots from Himalayan Climber follow, as well as a few possibilities for archival mail-order from the 1972 Chouinard catalog.
We planned for a day’s worth of errands in Portland. But an ice storm kept us in town through Sunday. Rather than pursue our standard routines, we followed our friend Sarah G., a Portlander, to her favorite places. I’m supplementing the usual AC footage of wool and waxed cotton with new images of salt, patent leather and silver.
A Canterbury Tale (Powell and Pressburger 1944) provides us with evidence that heritage clothing for women is not an impossibility. In a recent post to Valet, a 23 year old woman inquired about how she could wear “peacoats, slim pants, loafers, etc. without looking too boyish? Any brands you would recommend?” In response, Valet offered three suggestions: Boy. Band of Outsiders, Black Fleece and JCREW. Though a good start, we’d prefer to shop from smaller labels like Nigel Cabourn, Mister Freedom, Our Legacy, Opening Ceremony, Gitman Bros. and SNS Herning. Unfortunately, none of these brands offer collections for women (Engineered Garment’s ephemeral FWK line has yet to migrate West). Further, Valet advises “to mix in those boyish pieces with light touches of feminine charm.” If the reader had emailed Archival Clothing, I would have suggested she model her wardrobe after the Land Army Girl, Miss Alison Smith, from A Canterbury Tale. Note Miss Smith’s smart uniform of knee length woolen stockings, wide leather belt, brogues, sweater, plaid scarf and corduroy breeches.
Sweater tucked into pants. Above-elbow cuff.
Dress w/cartridge bag
Traditional Women’s Land Army uniform
Thanks to archival finder Robin E. for sending along the original recommendation for A Canterbury Tale.
by Tom Bonamici We were alarmed to see that flickr favorite, Pillpat, has loaded more images to her Manufrance set. Over dinner, we had been shopping from Arnys and Hebden Cord, both offering unobtainable clothing (one’s unaffordable, one’s out of business). Like these companies, Pillpat’s content aggravates the historical shopper by presenting a line of unique garments all with singular cuts, details and fabrics. The hunting clothing is particularly strong in this round of images–see especially: le costume pour l’alpiniste, le nouveau costume pour la chasse et le grand paletot fourré.
I (Tom) am particularly fond of the Gilet Cartouchière (above, far right), especially in this context of being worn over a heavy sweater. Note the flapped cartridge pocketing and trim neck detailing. Translation snippet: “This vest can be made in any of our suiting fabrics.”
Like in the Arnys catalog, we’re really impressed by the presentation of garments as part of an entire ensemble. But we also enjoy seeing the different detailing, such as odd plackets and pockets, pivot sleeves, and wildly varying hemlines. In fact, we both think that Hergé might have done all of Tintin’s shopping from this very catalog. Finally, the fabric samples bring to mind the Archival Clothing party doctrine that any garment in a line should be available in any fabric (see custom options at Old Town and Hebden Cord).