A spot check on the Beams Boy Instastory redirected me to this curious “office style fair” capsule collection. I’m still trying to put my finger on the persona or segment archetype represented by this clothing.
Martexin reproofing wax. Operating instructions on the can.
Archival Clothing endorses waxed cotton because it’s a rugged, natural, water resistant fabric that requires only wax reproofing to maintain its finish. Waxed cotton users should know how to reprooof their jackets, hats, and bags. Both Filson and Barbour offer factory reproofing services but we recommend performing the work yourself (at least once). Reproofing waxed cotton is relatively easy and personalizes the care and maintenance of your garment. Even if you live in the desert, you should establish a reproofing schedule for your waxed cotton. Reproofing extends the life of waxed cotton and prevents it from developing the folds and wear lines that often lead to holes.
I do my reproofing in August so I can move the work outdoors.
Basic tools: wax (warmed), water, sponge, blow dryer (or heat gun). If you’re using our 1.5 ounce tin, spoon some wax into a bowl and heat briefly in microwave. Some people recommend using Filson wax, say, with a Filson product, but I’ve switched between several brands of wax treatment (Filson, Barbour and Martinex) with the same results. I will concede that for a full reproofing job on a jacket, the larger tins of Barbour reproofing wax are easier to heat in a double boiler.
Dab off dirt with a moistened sponge. Do not use soaps or detergents.
Use clean sponge to spread warmed reproofing wax thinly on fabric. Short strokes work best.
Reheat surface of item with blow dryer to melt the wax into the fabric.
Reapply wax until it evenly coats the bag.
Restored to original factory finish
I still have wax left so I’m reproofing a couple of my Filson duckbill caps
You’ll be moving back and forth between wax applications and the blow dryer
Don’t expect the wax to glaze evenly over fabric. You’ll need to work it into the surface.
There! You’ve shopped from yourself. These rewaxed hats are better than new. Let the sun help w/the final reproofing. Use a blow dryer again if you find any remaining, unmelted spots of wax. If you’ve overdone it, fear not, daily use and rain will wear down the excess wax.
It’s winter and I’m months away from wearing anything made out of ultralight nylon. However, I’m curious about this Hender Scheme trail cap that was recently featured in a recent Takanna e-newsletter (the only Gmail inbox promotions folder fodder I don’t delete). I love that the cap is reversible, pocketable, and unstructured — things that make it perfect for dry weather hiking, flyfishing or cycling (as an under-helmet sun shade).
Bonus: the adjustable cinch cord gives the cap a surprising bit of adjustability. I’m also a fan of the low crown and floppy brim. Glad to see some brands moving away from stiff peeked, rigid brimmed trucker hats (ugh).
Complaint: I’m not wild about the large leather logo patch, but that’s a detail that could easily be tweezered away.
My top Rin Project product pick is this cycling pullover with retro-inspired front carrying pockets and wool sourced from the UK. It reminds me of the derby tweed sweaters that Rivendell Bicycle Works used to make in the 1990s.
It’s 2018, Amazon prime time, and I love that there are still brands that I can only buy in Japan. My running list: Rin Project, Danton, Anatomica, Beams x Fennica, Orcival and Rocky Mountain Featherbed. Obsession of the month: Rocky Mountain Featherbed (RMF) Six Month Vest (aside admiration for the slightly off kilter translation of RMF’s Japanese-English product names). What brings me back to Japan-only clothing are the fresh designs and build quality (even on everyday, less-than-luxe items). RMF, like all my fave brands, design products in dual lines sizes for men and women (rather than shoehorning everyone into unisex styles). Note: colorways are the same for men and women.
For gents, there is no shortage of chore coats in fascinating cuts and fabrics. Here are a few of my faves on offer (and on sale) from Mister Freedom (via Self Edge). Also, I need to know: who is this handsome, bearded, deadpan, denim fit model? What memory traces does he carry, having worn so many amazing, high dollar workwear garments over the years? What is his daily (after hours) uniform?
I spotted this patchwork chore coat from Tigre Brocante last Fall. Unfortunately, a half year later, the jacket (nicely styled for men and women), has disappeared from the site. You may not be able to buy this jacket, but you can still mimic the look. Check out Corridor’s Duck Dyed Overshirts (on sale) as a worthy, patch-free alternate. Pair w/Corridor Bucket Hat and Troentorp (mandatory style staple) for a seasonless, timeless, unisex ensemble.
I’m swooning over the French aviators (and their uniforms) found in a new Flickr album uploaded by archival image maven, Pillpat. Check it out, noting all the new-to-my-eyes, sartorial details: unique pullovers, cool tunics, curious collars, striped socks and military-duty clogs. Sign me up for any branch of service that issues such lovely off-duty garb (off-duty, in this case, consisting ofcafe confabs and larky posing for the camera). Marking these snaps as catalog fodder for my aspirational clothing company.
I’m tapped out after a trip to Japan. Nevertheless, I’m saving up my shekels for a new Danton chore coat. Danton, a French brand licensed for distribution in France, offers sturdy, unisex work clothing for men and women in staple fabrics including poplin, cotton, and now, sturdy moleskin. Danton, like Engineered Garments, produces a line of stock styles in a seasonal refresh of heritage fabrics. Find your Danton via Zozotown, Rakuten, or B-shop (a proxy shopping service like Sutocorp may be required).
It’s always fun to match a fave brand to its foreign, brick and mortar store. During my recent trip to Japan, I visited Cycles Grand Bois, a venerable bicycle company known for its elegant handlebars, polished bike parts, custom frames, and 650b tires. Thanks to a rando pal who knows how to navigate Google maps in Japanese, we found GB in a suburb of Kyoto. Trading shoes for slippers, we explored the main shop area and talked to the manager. The showroom space is cramped, with bikes packed in tight bunches on the main floor and auxiliary frames stacked in window display pyramids or hung from the rafters. I’m including a few snaps from my visit. Follow Grand Bois on Instagram for a more immersive view of the shop.