From eBay, a great example of a refreshing, non-minimalist clothing design: wool twill riding breeches by Hebden Cord (the now defunct country clothier from Hebden Bridge, York). I love to see clothing that deploys buttons and flaps in lieu of zippers or shaping panels to facilitate fit and max adjustability. I’m wondering about the date of manufacturer for this style/model (are those waistband buttons for suspenders?). My only catalog copy is from 2001 and it features a much more contemporary looking pair of riding trousers made from era-predictable poly blend with zip fly and velcro closures. If you can date these breeks, email me or tweet me over at @archcloth.
Searching for generic images for a U/X personas project, I happened upon the Exactitudes project featuring typologies of people who wear similar uniforms. My fave typology from Exactitudes is the one featuring a group identified as “farmcore.” From afar, the only thing that seems to identify someone as farmcore is wearing a Barbour jacket. Things that I love about the photo series: the fit of the jackets (it’s ok to be a jacket to be oversized), the emphasis on older Barbour coats (Borders and Beauforts), and the individual styling. Take a look:
If you follow Archival, you know that we love UK-made, Brady game and fishing bags. While the brand and product line has expanded in the last few years (adding business, biking and equestrian lines, not to mention, Japan only models), the core patterns have remained relatively unchanged since this 1976 catalog. It’s a relief to know that Brady bags are still handmade in England in the same materials (Archival faves: canvas, brass and bridle leather) as the original models from the 30s and 40s. If you are shopping for a new bag, I recommend The Sporting Lodge which offers stock and special edition Brady models like the Gelderburn in an exclusive colorway or this unique jubilee cartridge bag from 1952 (originally carried by the Queen).
Since my bag library is full, I frequently collect images of vintage Brady models from eBay, Rakuten and Etsy. I’m searching for vintage Brady models that I haven’t seen in print catalogs or incorporate features like hand knotted game nets that have disappeared from the modern line. Here are two recent finds that I’m adding to the Archival image archives:
Brady Sandringham with hand knotted, hemp game net. Brady still sells a Sandringham with a nylon game net (an undervalued feature on modern bags) but I love the level of hand work represented by this vintage model. I don’t own a Sandringham, but if I ever buy another Brady, it will be this bag.
I love the diminutive yet overbuilt look of this tiny, early era Brady shell bag. The treated canvas has aged beautifully and the tiny scale of the bag really throws into relief the bag’s beautiful material components (essentially becoming a framing device for the lovely, bridle leather and brass closure).
I just stumbled across Carrier Company, a terrific looking heritage clothing manufacturer out of the UK. Like their more famous, Norfolk counterparts, Old Town Clothing, Carrier Company manufacturers high quality, 100% cotton jackets, vests and smocks that take their design cues from the past but have been updated with a slightly more modern fit. Browse the Carrier site for a range of rural garb sized for both for men and women. Here are a few of my favorite models:
Thanks to my Hedbden Cord hunting pal, Hudsonic, for spotting this Greenspotventile jacket on UK ebay. I’ve been searching for an original version of the Bertram Dudley & Son ventile cycling jacket for ages. For daily use or for cyclo-commuting, I cannot imagine a better design (raglan sleeves, loop pull zipper, functional pocketing). Modern updates to this style by Hilltrek have eliminated the spread collar, but I like this historic feature because it adds a touch of dress elegance to the jacket. Alas, even with the short cut and side cinches, I’m not sure the size 38 would fit me. At (capsule), I saw a nice Ventile jacket by the folks at North Sea Clothing which may be my next jacket acquisition.
Thanks to Elizabeth Peterson and Dave Baker for making Adventure Playgrounds (1965) available via the UO Channel. This 16mm short film demonstrates the concept of the adventure playground, a place where children construct play spaces out of raw building materials (“no swings or seesaws, only things created by the hands of the children from waste materials on the site”). Like many educational films of the era, Adventure Playground escalates the success of the program. Suddenly, the children’s “building, burrowing and digging” morphs into a bicycle shop, a literary journal and a canteen where tea is served. What I love most about the film is the fact that all the children look like they were garbed by Old Town Clothing. The derelict bombsite becomes a playground for boys in belted shorts, sturdy corduroy jackets, summerweight cardigans, cotton poplin shirts and durable lace up oxfords.
Thanks to Jesse Thorn for forwarding along these listings for an Abercrombie & Fitch Game Bag and Travel Kit on Etsy. Although the vintage of these two bags is unknown they were most certainly manufactured by the original, New York based A & F Company. If you feel the urge to order your own best quality travel bag, here’s a link to our reprint of the 1939 A & F catalog.
The UK makes some of the best game bags in the world.I don’t hunt but I love this style of bag for urban portage.Like the original bike messenger bag, the game bag has a dedicated use function which keeps its design simple and free of useless complications. Most game bags only have one large carrying pocket, come in a single color and are made from best quality materials: proofed canvas, bridle leather, brass fittings and heavy duty cotton web. You won’t find organizer pockets, security zipper closures, carrying handles or plastic hardware on a classicgame bag. My favorite feature, of course, that is the hand knotted game net.Originally designed for carrying bloody fowl, the net game pocket doubles as easy access point for frequently accessed (or damp) items. If Archival could locate a US source for hand knotted cotton net, we might consider integrating this feature into a future bag design. Here a few examples of UK game bags with net pockets:
Unidentified vintage bag
Holland & Holland “luxe” game bag
Chapman Solway 16
Vintage Brady Meadow
Rebadged Barbour bags
King of kings – discontinued Brady Scot (20″ width)
Game net protects bacon cargo from thieving Weimaraner