Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Posts Tagged ‘archival animals’

Archival Field Trip: NYC/Brooklyn (Pt 1)

October 30th, 2010
Bobby Short portrait at the Cafe Carlyle. Soon after we landed we headed over to the Carlyle for a dinner show featuring OFAM favorite, John Pizzarelli and his wife Jessica Molaskey. Jonathan Schwartz was in the audience. 

Tom, Sara and I breakfasted in Brooklyn with Matthew from the William Brown Project.

Pratt campus. We wanted to see to whence Tom has disappeared.
Visit with Emil and Sandy, the kind and creative gents behind Hickoree’s/The Hill-side.
Some Hill-side wears with Brooklyn view

Exemplary packing station

Sara and Tom inspecting a Stanley & Sons conveyor belt tote
Brooklyn transport

Brook Farm General Store. Our Chaz would enjoy being a shop dog.

In constant transit. Footwear report to follow.

I emailed with this nice gent about places to stay in Brooklyn. We ran into him–by chance–at the restaurant he manages, Marlow & Sons. In addition to serving food, they sell woven towels and Armor-Lux apparel.

The Brooklyn Kitchen. Tom and Sara browsed the pickling supplies. I obsessed over the MKS Design paring knife on the left.


We stopped by Epaulet to check out their new Thorogood farm boot and Vanson for Epaulet waxed cotton motorcycle jacket. Lots of foot traffic in the shop.

A few doors down from Epaulet, we made a quick visit to Smith + Butler. Tom checked the fit on a Pointer chore coat. Just out of the frame, a reality TV couple browsed the inventory of nautical scarves, Barbour jackets and American workwear.

An all-important, end of day pause for cured meats at Los Paisanos meat market.

NYC/Brooklyn field trip, part two, coming next week.

Shopping from The Field and Forest Handy Book

September 13th, 2010

by Tom Bonamici

I’ve started to get settled here in Brooklyn. Classes are going well, I’ve gotten a job in one of Pratt’s wood shops, and my room, though small, is snug. Of course, I’m still shopping, and as the weather cools I’ve been flipping through one of my favorite books to shop for Autumnal activities.

Both written and illustrated by the formidably awesome Daniel Beard, the Field and Forest Handy Book is essentially a sequel to the American Boy’s Handy Book. I’ve been looking at/reading the latter since I was a very small child, but the former came to me during college, a Christmas gift from a friend who knows me well. So if you’re wondering what to do during your spare moments this fall, please consider these suggestions.

Build a Boat:

Learn how to Pack A Dog:

If staying in swampy territory, consider an Elevated Camp:

Build a simple Straddle-Bug Bridge:

Learn to sew a pair of Moccasins:

(This is a good pattern for beginners) It’s never too early to start work on this winter’s Snow-Shoes:

Archival custom order: Filson dog collar

April 5th, 2010
Chaz in his Filson collar (on shore of McKenzie River)

In my post on the Filson custom order program, I forgot to mention the collar I purchased for my dog, Chaz. Filson offers their vegetable tanned, bridle leather collars in 14, 19, 21 and 23 inch lengths. Unfortunately, this size range really only covers skinny spaniels or thick necked Labrador retrievers. Filson needs a mid-sized collar in the 16-17″ range which would work for field dogs like Weimaraners and German Shorthaired Pointers (breeds frequently featured in Filson catalog copy).

A Filson staffer once told me about a collar he had made for his bird dog from a Filson bridle leather belt blank (before Filson made dog collars). Inspired, I phoned Filson to see if I could customize a collar for Chaz. For the standard upcharge of 35% above retail, Filson agreed to make the collar (confirming that they had recently customized a 17″ collar for another customer).

Here are some use notes and photographs of the custom Filson collar:

New Filson collar (L), aged Leerburg flat collar (R)

Welded brass hardware

Made in Seattle

Double riveting

While I love how the Filson collar looks, I’d like to see Filson make a few upgrades to the design. For one, the collar comes with a welded rather than cast brass “O” ring. For a company that prides itself on making products from the “best” materials, I’m surprised by their selection of lower grade hardware for the optical center of the collar. I’m constantly rotating the weld so that it doesn’t show.

Also, after a wet winter’s exposure to rain, the leather is beginning to wrinkle and warp a little. While I regularly treat the leather with Pecard dressing, I’m concerned about how the collar is going to look after a few years.

If I were updating the collar, I’d swap out the brass ring, upgrade the leather and reinforce the pop rivets with double-stitching for extra durability (see the Leerburg collar as an example). While I’m critical of these details (I expect the best from Filson), I’d still recommend it for anyone looking for a quality collar. (Note that for swimming, I’d switch over to something a little more non-archival and water repellent.)

For reference, here are a few additional sources for archival quality leather pet leashes and collars.

Ray Allen


Frances Kelley Bridles

Archival Game-Hawking

December 5th, 2009

by Lesli Larson

Game-hawking might be an archival hobby worth reviving. In Eugene, even my dental hygienist raises chickens in a backyard coop. Why not expand fowl-keeping to include birds that fetch their own dinners? At minimum, game-hawking provides us with new possibilities for heritage ensembles for 2010. Archival files show a promising range of outfits roughly based on the gamekeeper’s wardrobe of tweeds, tall boots and jaunty caps. Excessive, protective layering–even on warmer days–is advisable to guard against underbrush and misdirected talons. Dress shirts and ties are encouraged. I leave sartorial takes on the falconer’s gauntlet up to the individual.

Here are some vintage images of the game-hawking club at Oxford University. In this case, I will not be shopping from the club’s Medieval falconry garb:

Who can resist a sport that requires an extra set of accessories for the companion animal?

Traditional hawk furniture

Falconry in film:

A Canterbury Tale (Powell and Pressburger)

Archival eBay: Holland & Holland game bag

November 13th, 2009

I’ve always enjoyed Holland and Holland’s larky treatment of outdoor clothing and shooting accessories via aspirational scenes of country living.

My H & H catalogue collection is pretty scattered so I monitor ebay for use-case photographs of H & H bags and clothing. My favorite photos feature products removed from country estates and plopped down under the brights bulbs and white sheets of an ebay auction photo shoot.

Holland and Holland tweeds on ebay

Unless Holland & Holland is underwriting all of the historical manufacturing industries in the UK, it’s hard for me to endorse the 827.00 Buy It Now price for this recent vintage hunting bag . But I love how the auction lets me inspect, close-up, all impeccably executed design features.

Ebay auction item 220502582016 (sale price: 827.25)

From the Archives: First World War "Official" Photographs (National Library of Scotland)

August 3rd, 2009

Searching for historical images of women in uniform, I found these terrific photographs from the National Library of Scotland’s Digital Archive. Many of the original photographs document a less expected, more routinized view of war. My favorite set show dogs (non-trad breeds) and pigeons being trained as messengers. I was also taken by the more candid views of troops in relaxed or sporting, non-combat situations. Visit the collection to curate your own image set.

Archival Bicycles

July 21st, 2009

From The Garden of the Finzi-Continis (Vittorio De Sica 1971)


Flashback with bicycle and plus fours
Away from the estate (bad news activates the plot)

I haven’t seen Vittorio DeSica’s The Garden of the Finzi-Continis in over ten years. What I remember about the film (aside from its grim ending) is the opening sequence following a group of youthful cyclists, in tennis whites, on their way to a match at the Finzi-Contini family estate.

On second viewing, beyond the opening sequence, The Garden of the Finzi-Continis loses dramatic momentum (bad things happen and than it ends). As it were, the film starts to feel more like a product of 1970s (synth-dirge soundtrack and meaningful zoom shots of lens flared foliage–think Don’t Look Now or Days of Heaven). But I still recommend Finzi for its ten minute, pre-War II story world populated w/beautiful people, roadster style bicycles, leather satchels, wooden tennis racquets and large breed dogs.