Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Posts Tagged ‘hunting jacket’

Shopping from the 1930s: Montgomery Ward

September 30th, 2011

Exemplary outerwear

I’ve been on an ebay shopping spree for Montgomery Ward catalogs (the Archival bible). I’ve secured a few new Fall editions from the 1940s which I’ll be reprinting here–in bits–in the next few months. Copies of the 1930s catalogs are more tricky to source. Inspired by Spokesniffer and Reference Library, I’m capturing auction images as placeholders for items I did not buy. Here are a few frame grabs from vintage catalogs from the 1930s that were beyond my “buy it now” pricepoint. If I could make it so, these would all Archival offerings for Fall 2011. Smitty “Whata Sweater” would be announced as our new Archival mascot.

Smitty Sweater

Heavy weight shawl collar sweaters and cardigans

All wool blazers

Denim jackets, overalls and trousers

Canvas duck field jackets

All wool shaker sweaters

Heritage workwear for women

Pendleton blankets

Shopping from David Mamet: Hunting Suits

October 1st, 2009

Apparently, I missed the news that filmmaker David Mamet started his own line of vintage inspired, outdoor clothing in 1999 under the Joseph Morse Company label. Here’s what I learned from the Cambridge Companion to David Mamet:

Perhaps Mamet should have waited a decade to launch his clothing brand. Per earlier blog posts, I remain fascinated by how well stocked his films are with newly popular heritage brands like Barbour, Woolrich and Filson. In Heist, a film I have not seen since 2001, Gene Hackman wordlessly walks through the opening scene of the film in an all-waxed cotton hunting ensemble. Although I’m unsure of the make of the field jacket (it looked Filson until I saw the pocketing), I’m pretty sure Hackman’s bag is a J.W. Hulme Co. English field bag (or a rebadged version offered by Orvis). Another blogger will have to document the make and model of Hackman’s shotgun and field notebook.

While Mamet’s own brand of nostalgia may have failed, I disagree that the past and its historical styles cannot be repeated/improved upon/multiplied into the future. Perhaps Mamet was meant to offer his items exclusively through the visual catalog of his films rather than by way of flimsy retail outpots like Banana Republic (a point of sale for his original line). For the pricepoint, and for sizing options, I prefer shopping directly from Mamet’s movies themselves (coming up next: Winslow Boy).

I read that the motto of Mamet’s clothing line was Quiet in the Woods. This must have been the overarching direction for Hackman’s hunting ensemble in the opening scene of Heist:

Heist (Mamet 2001)

A hypothetical look at Hackman’s ensemble by way of a vintage print catalogue from another age:

Archival Addendums:

Ibex Loden vest

Slumming: Barbour quilted vest

From the Archives: Maremanna game jacket

August 28th, 2008

In a frightening preview of Barbour in 2015, the John Ashfield brand of Italian hunting clothing has gone from pitching mossy moleskin Maremmana game jackets to pink logo tees, fleece jackets and beachwear. Grant Petersen of Rivendell claims that the first sign of an outdoor company in decline (namely, Filson or Patagonia) is the introduction of a women’s wear line. The first sign for me would be the availability of gifts, fragrances and teddy bears on the corporate website.

Though I’ve deaccessioned John Ashfield as an Archival Clothing brand I’m posting some photos of two Maremmana game jackets from the original Ashfield website.

One hour post-script: perhaps the first sign of decline is repeated references to your product in NYC menswear boutiques ala the reference to the “Filson bags piled in a mound in the corner” in the review of the Steve Alan Annex in today’s Critical Shopper column.