What are your expectations for an iconic brand collaboration? In the case of Barbour x Engineered Garments, I’m looking for more of a Shackleton crackup, corduroy collar meets crazy pocketing. These jackets are a little subdued for my tastes, a too polite exchange of zippers, snaps & fabric.
Posts Tagged ‘engineered garments’
Even when I am in austerity mode, I love to browse Rakuten to see what is on offer for Japanese shoppers. A decade later, I remain fascinated by all the licensed euro brands that show up in small Japanese web shops (Kempel, Danton, Yarmo, Sierra Designs, Brady, to name a few). I cannot think of another place in the world where brands and styles are imported, reimagined, and than sold exclusively to a domestic audience. Fortunately, Rakuten has developed a worldwide shipping service that has opened many webshops to international customers. I tend to browse the new shops for brands and than sift the used clothing sites for bargains. I am always looking for updates on staple items or cues as to how stylish Japanese customers are sporting their garb. Here are so recent finds.
FWK Engineered Garments lab coat paired with rolled trousers and Parabook loafers. As someone who locked in my high water pant height years ago, I love the Japanese commitment to the extreme ankle exposure and socklessness.
I love Japanese appetite for special white and off white color treatments. You won’t find these Brady bags or Barbour jackets in the US or UK.
Several fave web shops have reached stasis in they model catalog clothing. The approach applies to men and women and goes something like: knit cap, long chore or lab coat, baggy trousers, socklessness and sneakers, clogs or loafers.
Interesting twist on the UK Lavenham equestrian jacket. I like the idea that a summer jacket would be designed with a quilt lining. The pockets on the jacket are pitch perfect.
I’ve seen a number of web shops market kids clothing to women. For me, this proves that a customer base exists for heritage clothing resized to fit women (without compromising design details or creating separate colorways). I only wish more US apparel companies would adopt this approach (or at least expand the size offerings of the kids lines to include XL and XXL).
Danton is my new FWK Engineered Garments. I love the round collar, windproof jacket. I already own a few copies and anxiously await a new release in a melton wool or cotton twill.
Archival is in New York for (capsule) this week. Nicole and I/Lesli spent the Saturday before the show checking in on a few favorite shopping haunts. Our best find of the day was a navy duck, Engineered Garments Service Coat (half off at Nepenthes). Winter seems to be the time for sample sales and generous store discounts. Armor Lux (my staple for stripes) is selling a large batch of made in France, cotton nautical tops for $39/each. Here are a few low res snaps from our day trip. More reports to come from (capsule) proper. The full Archival team of Tom, Lynn, Nicole and Lesli will be assembling tomorrow to set up for the show.
Last week, Archival dropped in on the Monday eve pop-up shop and Kenzo Minami gallery opening at Nepenthes, one of our favorite NYC shops. Nepenthes was so packed that we were capsule released into the space in timed intervals. In line, we bumped into a number of fellow Market Week participants who had also come to demonstrate their Engineered Garments brand fandom. Here are a few snaps from the event and our follow up shopping expedition.
My wardrobe comes from three places: Archival, thift shops and FWK Engineered Garments. Since 2010, I’ve been buying carefully selected pieces from Engineered Garments line for women. I’ve amassed Bedfords in wool and corduroy plus a rotating collection of work shirts in chambray and broadcloth. Just when I thought I was set with staple pieces for the next decade, FWK released this amazing Aviator’s jacket as part of their Fall 2012 line.
The jacket is made up of an outer shell of cotton/nylon rip stop fabric with an internal wool liner. Despite all sandwich of fabrics, the jacket does not feel bulky or limit arm or body mobility. Nylon ripstop keeps out the Oregon rain while the thin wool lining adds a comforting, chill abating layer. In use, the jacket has an amazingly sporty, body hugging quality.
Instead of a full storm flap, the FWK EG jacket comes with a snap front, semi storm flap. Here, I love the visual bling of these three snaps but the sturdy, two way zipper has a tendency to catch on the flap when I zip up the jacket.
FWK EG is one of the brands that still inspires seasonal lookbook anticipation. Here’s a snap from a Japanese site showing how the jacket could be styled with additional, counterpunctual patterns and layers
Per Archival Resolution #9, here is the November edition of my Archival uniform. While our resolutions recommend that you come up with a signature uniform that you wear once a week, mine has seen active use on multiple days.
Archival striped tee women and Centralia multiweave cardigan. Here, per usual, I follow my own rule of wearing at least two layers on top. In another month, I might add a kerchief or a fine gauge wool scarf as a neck garnish.
Engineered Garments Upland Vest. Inspired by the Japanese, I love to finish my uniform with a vintage Upland style hunting vest (the pocketing doubles as a purse). Since I’m so small, it’s hard to source an authentic hunting vest that fits properly so I opt for updated versions – sized for women and petite gents – by Rising Sun, Post O’Alls or Engineered Garments.
Red Cloud & Co. Denim. Howard Gee, the denim guru at Ab Fits, introduced me to Red Cloud premium denim made in mainland China. The Red Cloud cut is close to a pair LVC Levis 1947, my go to denim on alternative outfit days.
If you have a signature uniform, please post your notes to our Archival Facebook page or send me a note at firstname.lastname@example.org. I’d love to repost more visual examples (other than mine) on the AC blog.
Snap views from last month’s field trip up to PDX.
John Boultbee Criterion jacket (via Brooks of England blog)
The Beretta Maremmana jacket (a traditional Italian hunting jacket) makes use of the same hands free shoulder strap design. The Maremmana, in moleskin or corduroy, would also make for a terrific cycling jacket in cooler weather.
The Criterion features an “action back” to facilitate free upper body movement. This feature can also be found on traditional field and waterfowling jackets like the Red Head or this Filson Upland jacket.
Unlike most heritage brands, Brooks has designed a version of the Criterion jacket for women. As far as a I can tell, the jacket mirrors the version for gents but is sized for women.
Another modern UK alternative for cyclists 0r cyclo-commuters is the unlined Hilltrek double ventile jacket. The jacket can be custom ordered in a single ventile layer for greater breathability. In general, I prefer light, unlined jackets for use on the bicycle.
If you cannot afford the Criterion (1000.00 €), we recommend the Carradice Duxbak waxed rain cape. For slow speed, upright cycling a rain cape provides terrific rain protection while permitting you to wear pretty much any outfit you like underneath.
Since I live in the wet Pacific Northwest, my idea of winter outerwear is a waxed cotton or tin cloth jacket. I’ll add a supplemental wool vest or quilted jacket if temps drop below 40. For readers shopping from ice pack climes, I offer some expedition grade parkas from the past and present.