Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Posts Tagged ‘tweed’

Shopping from the movies: The Queen (2006)

May 1st, 2012

Next to Montgomery Wards and Mamet’s State and Main, the Queen (Frears 2006) is my favorite shopping opportunities. I love to browse all the classic Barbours, Range Rovers, silk scarves, leather brogues, tweed keeperwear, cashmere crewnecks and matching dog breeds. Like a mail order house lost to time, The Queen stocks a small but deep selection of classic items – unchanged by fashion or consumer demand. Here are a few pages from my favorite catalog:

Shopping from the Present: Universal Works Bakers Jacket

October 26th, 2011

I’m always on the hunt for the perfect chore coat. It’s a style that’s warm, but not heavy, and it looks great. Since I wear chore coats in lieu of a blazer, I prefer French “bleu de travails” over heavy, outdoorsy canvas duck work jackets. Here are my basic requirements for the style: it should be unlined, with 3-4 generously sized patch pockets, button closures, spread collar and a boxy fit. When done well, the chore coat showcases fabrics, best quality notions, historic design details, and good tailoring. Chore coat fans can find examples in any price range from the hickory striped Pointer coat ($75.00) to the Univeral Works Harris Tweed Bakers jacket ($625.00).

Universal Works
, in the best tradition of chore coat design, offers their signature, made in UK Bakers jacket in a range of fabrics. Lark in Vancouver sells a version in tweed while Hickorees offers the same style in “fishbone twill” and red waxed cotton. Contrast stitching, watch fob button holes, discrete insert pockets, a center vent and tailored fit elevate this jacket far beyond its humble origins.

Archival Review: Shooting Waistcoats

September 25th, 2010

Try UK/European country clothing brands for top quality wool and tweed garments this fall. Companies like Hoggs of Fife, Barbour, Musto, Le Chameau, Chrysalis, Hucklecote, Purdey and Beretta produce practical, beautiful country clothing from best quality materials (mostly in their traditional country of origin).

In the fall, the waistcoat functions as a transitional wardrobe item, moving the user from bare armed summer to multisleeved winter. The vest allows freedom of movement while providing some protection from the elements. In contrast to the standard nylon puffy version, we love the tailored look of wool and waxed vests. Since they are designed for rugged use in the field, we know that they will last for ages. Archival Clothing endorses garments with well placed, well thought out pocketing. The pockets found on the shooting waistcoat, engineered to carry heavy shells, are my absolute favorites.

Here are a few of my favorite waistcoats, some within my pricepoint (Hoggs of Fife) and others exhibited as purely aspirational eye candy (Purdey). Most of the brands shown here offer waistcoats (and country clothing) for both men and women.

Barbour Westmoreland waistcoat (Archival Clothing favorite)

Austerity option:Hoggs of Fife waxed waistcoast

Musto Technical Tweed Waistcoat

Musto Luxury Tweed Waistcoat for women

Le Chameau Balmoral tweed shooting waistcoat

Beretta St. James vest

Nothing heavier in the pockets than a smartphone and small change

Shopping from 2004

Archival Ebay: Hebden Cord Shooting Jacket

January 20th, 2010

by Lesli Larson

Archival Clothing readers are well acquainted with my obsession for Hebden Cord, an out-of-business UK clothier. Hebden Cord offered made-to-measure jackets, trousers and breeks in a selection of moleskins, cottons and tweeds. Upon request, Hebden Cord mailed out a sizing guide and matchbook sized fabric swatches (some quite shopworn or sun damaged). From overseas, one could spec the size, cut and finishing details of any garment in the Hebden Cord line. At the time Hebden Cord went out of business, I was plotting my order for double seated cycling shorts in heavyweight twill whipcord.

The nearest contemporary match to Hebden Cord is Old Town Clothing where one can still customize the fabric on a fixed range of garments, but not the fit.

Hebden Cord print catalogs were simple, rarely changing from year to year. For this reason, I like to collect ebay images of Hebden Cord items to monitor how patterns were customized over time. Here is a recent tweed shooting jacket which would be perfect for either game poaching or Tweed Ride use.

Hebden Cord Tweed Shooting Jacket (ebay item: 180458736173)

Coming soon: full Hebden Cord catalog reprint. Shopping from 2004!

Eugene Tweed Ride 1/16/10

January 13th, 2010

by Lesli Larson

On Saturday, I’ll be joining friends for the third Eugene Tweed ride. Here’s my ride report from the Spring 2009 edition. For novice participants, I’m setting aside a few garments for your Saturday ensemble. Since the forecast calls for rain, I’m suggesting you layer with a Hilltrek ventile cycling jacket in lieu of the more traditional, heavy overcoat. For dryer conditions, substitute a Huckecote tweed shooting jacket: the Clunie for ladies or the Redford for gents (matching caps and breeks available).

Hilltrek ventile cycling jacket

Lavenham patchwork tweed vest

Fingerless mitts

Purdey shooting breeks

Quoc Fam traditional cycling shoe (courtesy Wallblog)

Brady Stour

Finished ensemble

Our sponsors

Addendum: day of ride photos here.

Packing from Archival Clothing

November 18th, 2009

by Lesli Larson

I’m preparing for a brief field trip up to Seattle. I’ll be visiting friends and checking out Blackbird’s pop-up Ballard store, The Field House.

Rather than packing the usual uniform (Levi’s, loafers and St. James sweaters), I’m sourcing my wardrobe from garments and accessories previously featured on Archival Clothing. Although I’d love to say that I’m bringing all USA-made goods, my selections for this trip are mainly UK brands . My hypothetical wardrobe features shoes by Crockett and Jones, perfectly tailored blazers and knickers from Holland & Holland and jackets by Beretta, Barbour and Hoggs of Fife (a jacket for every Northwest weather condition). At the moment, my shopping options for top quality, nicely fitting shirts for women is limited to my paper doll Holland & Hollands and a thrifted JCrew haberdashery shirt (not pictured). Please send along future packing suggestions for Gitman Bros. or Our Legacy type shirts sized for women.

Inspired by this 1919 demonstration of transformative wardrobes, I’m trying to identify a single clothing item that would generate multiple travel outfits (from Thursday through Sunday).

From formal clothing to sports wear in no time (Nationaal Archief)

Here’s what I’ve packed so far. I still need to edit my selections down to a single jacket and carry-all:

Barbour Urban Transport jacket

Hoggs of Fife & Beretta Maremmana jackets

Holland & Holland knickers, blazers and shirting

Crockett and Jones lace-up ankle boots and brogues

Brady & Hunting World travel bags

For some reason, one of my favorite travel bag brands, Bertram Mann, lacks a web presence and produces zero results in a Google image search. I’ll leave this space blank to illustrate the Bertram Mann weekender bag I’ll be using to pack up these outfits.

Archival Field Trip: PDX October 2009

October 31st, 2009

A few belated notes from a beginning-of-the-month (October) fieldtrip to Portland by way of the Oregon Randonneurs Bikenfest 200k (not pictured).

Sugar Cane Denim (not pictured) & Engineered Garments @ Blake

The shock of a properly fitting, size small, Filson Outfitter jacket

Custom tweed jacket @ Duchess

Billykirk leather tote @ Winn Perry

Scandanavian breakfast at Broder

Archival Spectators

July 29th, 2009

Notes: Fall Filson trickling into the “New Arrivals” section of the website (more to come, I assume, once semi-annual sale flushes out discontinued items, etc).

Items include additions to the wool luggage line like a timber camo duffle and grey multi tote.

Surprised by this wool bomber for Women. More Filson or Old Navy?

Jealous of this jacket and this jacket in different weight wools for gents. Filson, please consider offering this style for women in 2011.

I’m most excited about this Upland Jacket in a shorter, trimmer cut for women. It’s what I was expecting from Filson when they first introduced this collection (modern fit without pandering details like pleats or side panels). Wishing it were 2010 and the Upland Jacket had migrated over to the marked down, web specials section (optic corrupted by a few minutes in Zara today).

I’ve seen down vests and jackets (for men and women) from this seller on ebay. But nothing is up on the site yet.

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