Archival Clothing - Made in USA

Posts Tagged ‘portland’

Archival Field Trip: PDX July 2011

July 18th, 2011
On Friday, the AC team headed up to Portland for meetings with vendors and stockists. Most of the morning was spent at Columbiaknit where we reviewed a new garment prototype and collected fabric swatches for our reference library. After lunch at Tasty & Sons with Patrick Long, we checked in with a few more shops including Woodlands Supply Co. , Lizard Lounge and Tanner Goods. Some travel snaps below.

Thunderbird label for Japan

Jersey knitting machine

Collecting swatch samples



Sifting the deadstock archives for future scarf and rugby fabrics

Nickie sewing a garment sample

Lunch at Tasty & Sons with Patrick Long (Chester Wallace)

In transit with AC canvas duck rucksack


Cold Splinters Campfire Shorts




AC Field Bags and Rucksacks at Lizard Lounge




Danner Stumptown boot

Shopping from the present: Cooperstown Ball Cap Co.

June 16th, 2011
Tom sporting the short brimmed 1927 Portland Beavers Cap

Last March I lamented the loss of the Cooperstown Ball Cap Co. To my relief, Cooperstown has resurfaced with a new focus on caps from minor league and non-professional leagues. Cooperstown Ballcap Co. manufactures reproduction caps from bygone eras using original methods and materials. These caps are made from a sturdy wool flannel and feature a soft leather sweatband, just like the originals. Sized for a true fit, with a 3 inch brim. Because of our Northwest heritage, we have reissued the following caps from the Pacific Coast League: the Portland Beavers (1927 & 1956) and Seattle Rainiers (1941 & 1956).

To order, visit the AC web shop.

Best quality wool flannel

Pacific Coast League caps from the original Cooperstown catalog

Portland Field Trip

June 8th, 2011

I (Tom) took a quick solo trip up to Portland yesterday to run some Archival errands. All is well with our suppliers. I was thrilled to catch the hat machine at Columbiaknit spinning merrily away.

We’re working on quite a few new projects with Columbiaknit, including a classic Rugby shirt.
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Another delightful lunch with friend Patrick of Chester Wallace

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A quick stop at one of our retailers, Woodlands

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I picked up some inventory from the former Winn Perry, including these great Cooperstown Cap Company Portland Beavers and Seattle Rainers hats, coming soon to our store.
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A far-away project….

Archival Update: AC x Columbiaknit Sweatshirts

May 26th, 2011

AC x Columbiaknit sweatshirt in french terry

Ours comes with a knit v-neck insert too

On the heels of our scarf order, Columbiaknit just delivered a new production run of Archival sweatshirts in gray french terry and navy/white chevron stripe. The french terry was recently knit by Columbiaknit in their Portland, Oregon factory; the chevron is a new old stock floor fabric. The new sweatshirts, produced exclusively for Archival Clothing, are constructed with chain-stitching on the neck tape and waist ribbing. Flat-lock stitching along the sleeves and body creates an extremely comfortable seam which lies flat to the garment. All other seams are cover-stitched. Archival specified a midweight, all cotton fabric for Spring/Summer wear. The fit is modern. Sizing from XS to XL. XXS in the works. Made in Portland, Oregon.

The sweatshirts are available through the AC web shop and the following Archival retailers: The Tannery (Boston) and Goose Barnacle (Brooklyn).

Archival Update: AC x Columbiaknit Scarves

May 24th, 2011

We just took delivery of a new production run of Columbiaknit Scarves produced exclusively for Archival Clothing. We’ve restocked the popular royal navy/white scarf and added new colors in a lighter weight (7 oz) all cotton jersey (the same as our t-shirts). Original project report here.

Shopping from 1995: Film Cameras

May 15th, 2011
Mail order catalog from the original Camera World (Portland, Oregon)

Photographer friend Rick has proposed we that we shoot film exclusively this summer. Given my refrigerated stockpile of 35mm and 120 roll film, I’m accepting this challenge w/the caveat that bike, blog and product photography will still be done digitally. In prep for the summer, I’m browsing the pages of the 1995 Camera World catalog for a new camera (you always need a new one). Most of the cameras here are aspirational models (compact, complicated point and shoots or expensive rangefinders) that I admired but could never afford. Although the flagship Camera World store has been bought out, I’m hoping the customer service folks will honor the original published prices and deliver my equipment in time for the June project start.

Shop from these pages and join us!

Contax G1 (autofocus rangefinder). Old school version of this camera.

Konica Hexar (another point and shoot rangefinder).

Canon F-1. Last chance to buy one of the best, all metal, manual control SLRs.

Contaxt T2. A favorite. Sharp lens. Compact body point and shoot. Known celebrity use.

Leica mini zoom. Reasonable compact digital camera replacement.

Domke canvas duck camera bags. Made in USA.

Pentax 6×7. Love the wooden grip handle.

Mamiya 6. All time favorite. Medium format rangefinder.

For screening snaps in September

Next post: camera accessories.

Shopping from the Present: Duchess Clothier

February 18th, 2011

Editor’s note: Duchess Clothier, located next to Winn Perry in Portland, Oregon, offers custom and ready to wear clothing. In addition to stock patterns, Duchess can produce custom garments based on vintage patterns or photographs, using fabrics sourced by the customer. While I continue to contemplate the perfect Duchess project, AC friend Tiffany Thorton moved forward with an order for a pair of trousers inspired by a Sears catalog circa 1933. She documented the custom ordering process for Archival.

by Tiffany Thorton

Ready to wear jackets at Duchess

Lookbook

Jacket sample in the shop

A good pair of trousers is hard to find. Elusive fits, unsatisfactory materials and disappointing color selections have frustrated my search for a decent pair of trousers for a long time. Over the past few years, I’ve expended an embarrassing amount of time and energy looking for The Appropriate Trousers. I really wanted something of quality material and construction; trousers that would be comfortable, durable, and dignified. I nearly resigned myself to existing without these dreamt of trousers, until I spotted an Archival Clothing blog post referencing Duchess Clothier.

Original inspiration

I have long admired the cut of certain species of wide-legged men’s trousers from the 1930’s and 1940’s, and I spotted a couple of examples of such things on Duchess’ website. I was very attracted to the idea of having custom made garments that referenced these past styles, especially from a local establishment. I contacted Duchess and asked, a little sheepishly, if they could make trousers for women. Before long, I was headed to Portland, with a photocopied trouser reference from a reprinted 1930’s Sears catalog.

Correspondence

On the day of my appointment, I was greeted by Seyta Selter, one of Duchess’ friendly and knowledgeable founders. Seyta asked if I would like a reproduction of those specific trousers, and seemed as excited by the prospect as I was. We looked through the sample books, focusing on heavy weight wools, and I selected a dark brown herringbone fabric and an anthracite grey flannel (the anthracite flannel later turned out to be unavailable). We discussed fit as I was being measured, and talked about details like wide waist band that could handle a fairly large belt, a zip fly with three functional buttons on the waist band, and cuffs. I had never felt so supported in my sartorial preferences before.

Finished trousers.

Wide waist band with double loops (belt shown for scale)

Wide cuffs

I was really pleased with the first pair of trousers I got, and decided to commission more. I love the fit and form of these trousers. They are my favorite among the garments I have owned. They seem durable and sturdy, and I’m not worried that they’ll incur a lot of wear or weather damage. Wool is known for doing pretty well in most weather conditions, and Duchess has a large sample of wool fabric to select from. However, I wanted to try an experiment. I wanted to see if the trouser pattern that Duchess had constructed for me could be applied to a super heavy weight wool fabric that could be worn in truly awful winter weather conditions.

Heavy melton wool for winter weight trousers

After conducting some research, I decided that 100% wool melton fabric would be an interesting choice. I had a conversation with Ariel, another of the Duchess ladies, about bringing fabric for them to use, and she advised me on the amount of fabric it would take to construct a pair of trousers using my pattern. The next task was to find some. In the interest of supporting local industry, I felt that Pendleton would be a good source to tap for the melton wool fabric. It took a couple of e-mail inquiries to get a phone number for fabric sales, and when I finally made the call, I was pleasantly surprised to be told that the black melton wool I was interested in was on sale, and yes, they could ship it to Eugene. In July, I brought the wool fabric to Seyta, and we finalized a few details. It felt a little strange to be carrying around a bolt of heavy black wool in the summer heat, but any mild public humiliation is worth it; I can’t wait to put these trousers to the test.

Crucial care and feeding instructions

Archival Update: Field Bag Restock

December 20th, 2010

Olive

Our work for the year is done. On Saturday, Terry and Julie delivered a massive load of Archival Clothing Field Bags in all four colorways: dark brown, gray, ranger tan and olive. While in the checkout line to purchase storage containers for our new inventory, I happened upon a nice reference to Archival Clothing in Portland Monthly. Thanks to the author and AC reader Zach Dundas for acknowledging companies like Pendleton and Danner who produce stylish, heritage products in Oregon. Dundas also mentions one of our favorite Portland stockists, Winn Perry.

A note regarding holiday hours for the AC web shop–we will be shipping out orders through Thursday, December 23rd. Any orders placed through the web shop over the holiday weekend will ship out on Tuesday, December 28th.

Portland Field Trip: Subject to Season (12/4)

December 4th, 2010

If you’re an Oregonian, come by and say hello tonight at the Subject to Season show in the historic Ford building in Portland. I/Lesli will be exhibiting A.C. goods alongside friend, collaborator and Portland stockist, Jordan Sayler of Winn Perry. Per the Portland Mercury: “come prepared to drink, schmooze, and peruse.” The show will be advanced prep for our trip to San Francisco next weekend for the DGC‘s holiday market pop up, Showmanship.

Archival Baggage: Chester Wallace Tote

June 27th, 2010

Our Portland friend, Patrick Long, makes a terrific tote under the badge Chester Wallace . We ordered a few Chester Wallace bags for our web shop in my favorite summer nautical color combination: navy and yellow (for a knitwear example, see these SNS Herning sweaters for Comme des Garcons).

Chester Wallace tote available through Archival Clothing

A year ago, I saw my first Chester Wallace tote (in original canvas duck) at Canoe, a highly curated design shop selling items with a “lasting aesthetic”. Jordan Saylor also stocks Patrick’s bags at Winn Perry.

Grey waxed twill Chester Wallace totes at Winn Perry

Patrick came up with the design for his tote/carry-all over 20 years ago. He showed us an original sample during a Spring field trip to his studio.

Patrick w/his ur-tote

I love how the Chester Wallace tote becomes a template for experiments in color and fabric. Every time I see a new color variation or fabric test, I think: this the best one yet. For most of his stock bags, Patrick makes use of the same waxwear waxed cotton fabric Archival Clothing uses for our musettes, totes and rucksacks. However, Patrick is playing w/ textiles like Schoeller, Ventile and a stunning, heat sealable, polyurethane fabric used for emergency aircraft slides called Uretek.

Uretek fabric sample (for blimps and airships)

Denim experiment


The Chester Wallace tote comes with both nylon carry-handle and a detachable shoulder strap. Patrick has equipped the bag with a small external pocket and two internal pockets. All Chester Wallace totes have reinforced seams and come with a heavy duty reinforced nylon bottom–one of the bag’s principal visual signatures. The totes are sewn in Portland, Oregon.

Archival Clothing should have our Chester Wallace totes available for sale in our web shop by the end of the week.

Addendum: By day, Patrick works as an accomplished freelance illustrator. In an email, he mentioned that he was busy working on an animated fish for a cat food commercial. Here’s another example of his work — a holiday poster for the Oregon Lottery:

Evidence of a day job